RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 9:38 am

scr8p wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 1:08 am I don't believe the b4 spacer is long enough to actually fix the problem. It fits inside the case on a b4 to shim the top shaft. Not to support the slipper hub. Be better off buying 3/16 i.d. tubing and cutting it the length you need.

This would be a better idea as it can be tuned, but I’ve seen a few people recommend that the b4 spacer be used. Essentially you are flipping the position of the bearing but the thickness of the stack of components is the same of set side by side.

That is true. But the slipper doesn't bottom out on the bearing on a b4 trans. The case material would be between them. The hub bottoms out on the end of the flat milling. With the screwed up shafts, you need a longer spacer to shorten the length of the flats.

Joe made a few spacers for me so I could still use my blem top shafts. I'll lay one alongside a b4 spacer for comparison.

Regulatori wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 11:30 am I don't know the correct nomenclature. I'm just going off the terms used in my Worlds manual.

I understand that the kit included a turnbuckle.

But if you had bought a Worlds steering kit separately, it didn't have a turnbuckle. It just had a piece of 4-40 threaded rod (small all-thread).

Just a small oddity that I noticed.


If you aren't worried about being original, Du-Bro has 4-40 turnbuckles that you cut to length. Local hobby shops usually keep them in stock. They aren't flashy or super strong but they work. I normally keep a few in my spare parts box.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 9:26 pm Another option is to use the b4 spacer and that will require drilling out the case to clear it, then the slipper backplate is setting against the spacer (which is better) instead of relying on the flat spots. Part number is 9602 and they seem to still be around

@GoMachV

So I was able to purchase the B4 spacer. Here is how it currently sits.

I'm about to drill into the case. I'm assuming I need to drill fully through so the B4 spacer rests right against the top Stealth bearing?
Hoping that drilling will bring the slipper close enough and I don't have to shave down that (gray) inner clutch plate.

Just trying to confirm before I made permanent modifications. Thanks

Yes the hole needs to be large enough that the spacer will go through without rubbing, but small enough that the bearing won’t come out of place.

Even if you do this, it won’t hurt anything. As long as the bearing stays in its place then the opened up hole has no effect even if you can’t get the spacer to work.

Awesome, you and everyone else has been so helpful.

If that is an actual b4 spacer, that's definitely longer than the one I have that is "supposed to be" a B4 spacer. So disregard my earlier posts.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Jan 26, 2021 9:56 pm If that is an actual b4 spacer, that's definitely longer than the one I have that is "supposed to be" a B4 spacer. So disregard my earlier posts.

Your not thinking of the B4 rear hub spacer are you? It's similar but shorter.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Jan 26, 2021 9:56 pm If that is an actual b4 spacer, that's definitely longer than the one I have that is "supposed to be" a B4 spacer. So disregard my earlier posts.

I went off instructions from the previous page. I ordered a B4 #9602 top shaft spacer.

Ended up drilling out the top/shaft hole, fit the spacer, and it put the spur gear in a perfect spot around 2-3" mm from the motor plate.

Ran the car in my apt parking garage tonight and was grinning like an idiot the entire time. Ran perfect and think a 21t motor is perfect for this setup (and my ability).

First time I've played with an RC10 in over 20 years (had an RC10 gold pan and later and RC10 graphite)...brought back a lot of memories.

I do have a minor tracking issue where the car slightly bends to the left but that could be suspension/camber/toe issue. Just super happy that I was able to get the car on the road.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I kind of got late in the game with a World's kit (bought it 5 years ago but now getting it on the road) and just now stumbled upon the long re-re Worlds thread. Realizing that all of my issues (crappy hardware, ball cups that just seem super cheaply made, lots of QC issues, mismatched colored parts where some are white/greenish white, etc.)

Just bums me out that I had to spend this much time just getting the car on the road.

You should be able to trim it out in the radio. Just make a number of straight passes, add a click or two, repeat until It tracks straight. Nothing is ever perfect.