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So there is still a modern aftermarket top shaft available for the slipper conversion aside from the STRC one! Nice nugget of info there. Thanks.

How's the fit on that top shaft? I found the STRC one to be ever-so-slightly wobbly. Even after the precision shimming effort. Didn't seem to be an end-play issue. May have been my bearings though I guess.

There is a slight wobble, I contacted the company and they are sending me another.... so fingers crossed

Narrowed a bandit bulkhead, redrilled the mounting holes and made a hinge pin brace.

The front with is a little wider then stock, pretty sure I can compensate the different with caster blocks or wheel off set

Great work, that is a small width difference and not a big deal. Best part is now you can just use Bandit parts which are cheap and easy, realistically will drive the same as original.

The hinge pin bore portion of the Bandit bulkhead has a different molding shape and sits higher off the chassis than the TRX1 bulkhead (because the bulkhead is the chassis/bottom of chassis on the Bandit/Rustler and this portion sits on top of the chassis when used in a TRX1 application). There may be a need to remove some material from the pin bosses on the arms as well due to clearance issues with the chassis (scraping the chassis on the inboard radius).

Just curious. Any reason you're not using the regular front arm mounts in black?

Also, I'll have to double check this but I'm pretty sure that the Nitro Rustler front arms are a bit shorter than the electric arms. Might give you the correct width without having to change other parts.

harry697 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 18, 2021 8:49 pm Just curious. Any reason you're not using the regular front arm mounts in black?

Also, I'll have to double check this but I'm pretty sure that the Nitro Rustler front arms are a bit shorter than the electric arms. Might give you the correct width without having to change other parts.

Mainly due to availability, a set of black arm mounts just popped up on ebay and grabbed them. I also narrowed the bandit bulk just to see if I could do it and have a back up option if I need in the future.

Bandit and nitro rustler use the same arm , 2531x and fit the narrow bandit bulk head, the Trx-1 bulkhead would need spacers for the arms to fit correctly

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:27 am The hinge pin bore portion of the Bandit bulkhead has a different molding shape and sits higher off the chassis than the TRX1 bulkhead (because the bulkhead is the chassis/bottom of chassis on the Bandit/Rustler and this portion sits on top of the chassis when used in a TRX1 application). There may be a need to remove some material from the pin bosses on the arms as well due to clearance issues with the chassis (scraping the chassis on the inboard radius).

Yes the bulkhead sits higher, but I was able to center it so it does not interfere

Got the rear ended mounted, I really like the strc hinge pins with the nuts and not using e-clips. Not sure what I am going to do for wheels, I would like to use a b6 wheels if I can find a taller hex to correct the offset, if not bandit dish wheels

Looks like a Losi JRX2 motorplate, creative. I think RC10B2/B3 can be adapted, also the two piece ones from the Blue Eagle, Rad 2 cars to keep it Traxxas (Require drilling a couple holes as well as I am sure the Losi one did) What are those rear hubs? For cheap wheels look at various Tamiya DT02 and DT03 wheels. Front fit right on with standard 5x11 bearings, rear just run a hex on stock pin drive. I suspect rear you could make all sorts of ones work and really any front 2wd wheel that has 5x11 bearings. I have some on order from JC racing in England for a Super Astute and Ultima I will be trying. Will report back when they arrive.

Also, did you just order the STRC pin kit they list for Stampede/Rustler/Bandit I assume?

The motor plate is a Trx-1, looks similar to the jrx .

For hinge pines I used :
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-racing-concepts-heat-treated-polished-steel-locknut-style-hinge-pin-black-sptst3640bk/p34391

You still need to order front outer hinge pins to complete the set.

Rear hubs are Traxxas 1952,

Thank you for the wheel suggestion

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 4:22 am

popboy905 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 10, 2021 6:02 pm Freshing up the transmission with new internals, drag race concepts top shaft....

So there is still a modern aftermarket top shaft available for the slipper conversion aside from the STRC one! Nice nugget of info there. Thanks.

How's the fit on that top shaft? I found the STRC one to be ever-so-slightly wobbly. Even after the precision shimming effort. Didn't seem to be an end-play issue. May have been my bearings though I guess.

You might want to check out my alternative slipper conversion thread:

Franken-Slipper

I have a 2nd one coming up that will use a serpent spur gear. They will fit better dimensionally.

Chewbacca wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 1:36 pm

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 4:22 am

popboy905 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 10, 2021 6:02 pm Freshing up the transmission with new internals, drag race concepts top shaft....

So there is still a modern aftermarket top shaft available for the slipper conversion aside from the STRC one! Nice nugget of info there. Thanks.

How's the fit on that top shaft? I found the STRC one to be ever-so-slightly wobbly. Even after the precision shimming effort. Didn't seem to be an end-play issue. May have been my bearings though I guess.

You might want to check out my alternative slipper conversion thread:

Franken-Slipper

I have a 2nd one coming up that will use a serpent spur gear. They will fit better dimensionally.

pretty cool conversion, i'll considerate if i ever go back to the stock set up.