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I have some steel ones that look more black than anything else. I also have some that just look like bare steel.

Anything other than an on-road or oval application, I'd want a slipper or esc with torque limiting.

If you're seriously considering the slipper, a complete transmission makes much more sense.

Is the slipper for protecting transmission and drive line from damage and reducing wear, for getting better launches, or both?

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Feb 21, 2021 9:39 pm Is the slipper for protecting transmission and drive line from damage and reducing wear, for getting better launches, or both?

Primarily, protecting the transmission. Instantly getting traction while at full throttle is rough on a transmission. Think about every time the rear wheels leave the ground while under power, freewheeling and then grabbing.

But it is helpful as a tuning aid as well.

I now have a Thunder Tiger PD8217 outdrive. It's not a match for my T3 transmission. It's too big for the diff gear, just like the asc7668 was.

Was that from the link I sent you?

Sounds like it might be the 2.6 ratio outdrive from the GT


This is from the Pheonix ST Manual. Which is PD-7306 and PD-7307

RC10th wrote: ↑Wed Feb 24, 2021 7:16 pm Was that from the link I sent you?

Yes. It was worth a try.

Just finishing my ESC, receiver, and battery brackets. Also go a transmission with good outdrives and a complete slipper for an ok price. Now just waiting on my battery straps and non-butchered rear shock tower to come in.

My son's is shaping up nicely too. It's unfortunate that the tires on it have dry rotted sidewalks. We like the tread pattern.

We have plans to dye all the 3D printed nylon parts red.

In the process of my parts hunting, I ended up with enough parts to make a 3rd truck for my father-in-law, but with a slipper and spur assembly that I think is missing some parts. I haven't been able to identify it though. It might even be mismatched parts. Anyone recognize what this is from?

Looks like a Losi clutch.

Thanks for the tip. I see what I've got now.

My frankentruck has been taking a back seat to working on my son's RC10eGT. To clear the 96T spur, it needed a custom rear arm and mount. We picked up a new painted body for a T2/T3, not thinking that my T3 is weird with the transmission flipped and the shock tower in back like a GT. So I'll need to make a custom shock tower to match up to the T2 rear shock location. In the meantime, we took out the eGT to try it out with a couple of motors. All the running was in a grassy area near us. Starting with the nearly new X-Star 27T stock motor and an 18T pinion, the performance was what I expected from a brushed stock motor. Later we switched to a CAM modified motor that I know little about (I have several unknown spec modifieds now). The X-Star looks like it's going to sit from now on. The CAM motor was a smile maker. Up next is a Black Magic motor. However, we had a casualty. A front shock snapped the mount lug off a molded top. It was getting pretty dark and apparently we hit something a little too hard. I haven't been able to find a plastic bumper to fit this GT chassis, so I think I'm making one from a 1/8" sheet of HDPE.

Back to the shock cap. These are my first AE vehicles, so I'm mostly unaware of what can interchange between models. I see some replacement shock caps available, but see many more for B4, B6, etc. Is there any forward compatibility with shock caps from later models? That could open up some desirable options.

The bulkhead is the same as a 10T, so the bumpers interchange.

Lots of CRP bumpers on Ebay. I think that they are a copy of the old Pro-Line bumper.

The Andy's bumpers show up fairly regularly as well. I like them better. They mount with all four holes and I think that they look better.

Then there is the mini-bumpers. New ones are still available from Factory Works and on Shapeways, and used RPM ones are all over Ebay. They are better than nothing.

I made a Parma-style bumper. I like this material so far. Has some flex, cuts nicely with a Dremel without melting and loading up the cutoff wheel, and has a very slippery feel. No idea how it will hold up, but my impressions are that it should be durable for occasional impacts.

I finished up the repositioned rear shock tower. Now the T2 body can be mounted. Any suggestions on protective material to put on the painted surfaces in the expected rub spots? I've always had ratty 2nd hand bodies, so freshly painted is new territory for me. My son really loved the spacey look of this paint job.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-body-washers-foam-2mm-2-3mm-2-4mm-4-tra6716/p659914?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl8nYwsrF7wIVyb3ACh0pqQ2-EAQYAiABEgIazvD_BwE

When I use these on my body post, I keep the punch-outs. The little disks are great for places that can rub. The outer section of the holder can also be cut into strips.