RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

rnoswal3434 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 19, 2021 7:29 pm Hobbydick and banggood, had to laugh. Ok, I downloaded the plain old HPI RS4 but I don't know if it was stored on my computer or if I have to go to the competition.com site each time. It didn't ask me to save it anywhere. Definately the plain RS4 even though it does different body mounts. It matches the battery holder. If any of you have an extra slipper clutch setup let me know. Mine has just the aluminum piece that the clutch system bolts to. I have a gear attatched to it now so no slipper at all and I don't know how it will old up without a slipper. I won't be using a brushless motor so that may save it for a while. But those are some cool manuals because of it showing that actual car and chassis build. Once I get a battery holder figured out, which I have had one sent to me by frankentruck that he 3d printed out. Not original but it should work with a little modification.

I need to get a body and start painting it. Several to choose from.

Thanks guys for all the help and talk about the HPI cars. I think its a cool car and will look great under power.

Thanks

Russ

Russ-

Manual - Yes CompititionX is a goofy site, not sure why you have to "check out" a $0.00 cost PDF to download it. I forget if you just had to click on a link after "checkout", but should have been prompted to download. If you weren't able to get a PDF file, let me know I'd be glad to email to you. I recently sent the site owner a scan of an original "go fast parts" 1 page insert which references HPI part numbers for a number of hop-ups. Can send a copy of this as well if you're interested.

I've had some time to tear down, clean and rebuild one of my two original RS4 chassis. This 1st one is a 67 mustang replica of my father's 67 mustang. The 2nd is planned for a late model GT mustang but we shall see if that's the way it goes. Right now I'm working on a velcro strap battery holder for shorty lipos and may have an old battery holder and mounts available. One battery holder "door" has some cutouts for battery wires or terminals, but doesn't affect the function of the holder. I want to be careful of getting rid of "spares" or "extras" before I plan assembly of my 2nd RS4, but if I decide to part with it would you still be interested?

Regarding the slipper clutch, are you looking for the clutch plates and hub too? Manual calls out A221 (plate), A225 (pad) and A220 (hub) in addition to the spur gear and hardware to hold it all on. I can see if I've got a spare A225 pad but pretty sure I don't have spare hub or plate parts.

Otherwise hope your build is making progress and going well!

-D

Huzzah! I finally looked into uploading photos and I wasn't aware they could be uploaded directly. Awesome!

So here's the full tear down, after ultrasonic cleaning in my wife's jewelry cleaner. It collected dust for a few months then finally got to re-assembling it And here it is with HPI Racing 104926 '66 Ford Mustang GT Coupe body set in place. Trying to wrap it up before Xmas this year if I can.

That looks great! I did just finish a body for mine and will post pictures when I can get to it. I did notice your main gear is set up like mine but I don't have the added spring and nut on the end like so many setups on my other cars, losi, traxxas, associated. So apperently I don't have the parts to make this a slipper clutch car. I did put the battery box you built in it and after a bit of maneuvering I did git it to fit pretty good! A lipo box would be interesting along with a brushless motor. I don't know how much torque the gear box can take but with my 27 turn brush (mild) motor and 3400 nicad battery, it was a blast. Never would brake the tires loose under full accel. I was on a pretty flat asphalt parking lot and never used all the battery.

I did notice that my long belt tensioner tightens from the top, again, will send some pics. It presses down from above and the straight part of the bels gets very close to the motor and that chassis support. Yours is underneath which keeps it off the motor and above the chassis where there is a groove. I know there is a way to loosen the ball bearings internally for the transmission but it isn't really a slipper clutch. So yeah, see what you have in that area but I guess most just learn how to use the throttle smoothly and don't use a clutch but newer rc cars/truck are so mush stronger and better built than the early days.

A few pictures of the cross brace the belt on yours runs over. On mine I ran the belt under that piece. I was wondering if you knew the number of belt to order for replacement, front and back? Also wondering if that part is something you can print out. Just curious but if so, I would like to have one.

I am going to try to dip a body to see how that works too someday soon.

Thanks

Russ

Of course now I see the differences between yours and mine. I have 2 belts and you have one. Mine seems much more basic too. Yours looks like double a-arms up front. I ordered a pair of belts for mine and notice the front nerf,crash bumper is broken on mine just under and forward of the transfer gear. Why do I keep trying lol. It's cobbled but it was free many years ago so I tinker. Not quite the pile of parts you have on your table, well not even close. There was one of my type car for sale on ebay, 69 bucks, almost worth it for the spares. It has a carbon fiber frame like yours too.

Anyway, thanks for the help again. I will keep plugging along.

Russ

Russ, your RS4 is the sport (1). Kracken’s is an original RS4 which has several differences. The RS4 sport is more closely related to the RS4 Pro (1). Your dual belt design is more efficient than the transmission and one belt. It can also take about any brushed motor setup. I used to run 7 turn motors and 7 cell batteries in my Pro2 chassis.

Thanks shodog!

You have quite the collection of cars! I did take the diff apart and can see just how simple and yet strong it is. I wish there were new diffs available as the grooves in the output shafts have quite a bit of wear in them all around. It is a fun 10th scale car though. I ordered the belts but see things broken or almost stripped while taking it apart. I have a 19 turn too but nice to know I have more options in that area and still hold together. Looks like a tight fit for a lipo setup too.

Thanks for confirming what model I have too. I know all my stuff is old, frustrating to find parts but with printing, more is available. And the ocassional stuff on ebay helps.

Thanks again

Russ

The current prices for HPI RS4 stuff isn't too bad so if you search you can still find parts and cars you can use for parts. just don't fall into the trap I have where I've upgraded and spent way too money on rare parts that far exceed the actual value you can get for the entire car on eBay.