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All the talk about motors and gearing…
Looks like your running a very aggressive looking taller tire on it…. That would be an extremely important part of the equation as well. What tires are they ?

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 11:45 am All the talk about motors and gearing…
Looks like your running a very aggressive looking taller tire on it…. That would be an extremely important part of the equation as well. What tires are they ?

They are the traxxas canyon 2.2 they aren't that much bigger than the stock tires.

So I found a more sane 22/87 combination as opposed to the 19/54 that was on it. It's a lot slower at top speed.
I re-soldered the connections and they still may be bunk, but they seemed solid enough this time. I did some quick cleaning of the brushes and they seemed good to go, the surface blue wiped off.

It seemed better and none of the ESC thermal stops were hit. The truck still faded pretty hard after some time(5-6 minutes). It was nearly to a stand still. The motor was over hot at that point.

I think I have an old 27 turn fixed timing motor hanging around that I will try next. Now that the truck isn't comically over geared there is something to actually solve.

Here are the gearing recommendations that came with the kit. Be advised that they were based on racing with nickel based batteries, not bashing with high capacity lipo's.
Here is an article from the 90's, on gearing brushed motors.
Your T2 transmission has a 2.6:1 internal ratio, the original Stealth is 2.25:1, and the six gear is 1.83:1. I think that most other AE off-road transmissions are 2.4:1.

I had a bit of time to keep working on this. I was able to put a 14t (78/14) pinion on which brings the gear ratio pretty far down from the 54/22 I started with.

It's still plenty quick

I was able to get a pretty decent run in and after a few minutes I would say that the car is over geared a small bit, but only for the run time. I'll switch in a 12t pinion and see if that is perfect for this setup.

This will work for the winter, but there is no way this could be proper for the summer. I'll run it like this for the season and figure out what to do.

Once you go brushless you'll never go back. As much as brushed is fun to tinker with from time to time the benefits of brushless far outweigh the cost. Save a couple bucks over winter and buy a cheap BL before summer.

Or try that 550 you have provided you have a brushless ESC.


Your gearing isn't too far off what's recommended for a 13t, maybe a tad undergeared. 78 ÷ 14 x 2.6 = 14.49

The frustration I find with running brushed motors is the lack of cleaning supplies that are available anymore. Things like commutator cleaning sticks seem to no longer be available. For running in cleaner (on-road) environment, brushed motors can offer pretty good run time between cleanings. In the dust and dirt though, well brushless is a bit more tempting.

This is identical to the Trinity comm cleaner.

K Tool International KTI (KTI-70550) Glass Fiber Sanding Pen with EXTRA sanding point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN8H52/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_EH8HYDQJA13W12C8GT6R

Also, CRC QD Electronic cleaner can be used in place of motor spray. Just be sure to get the plastic safe version.

I get mine at Walmart, in the automotive section.



It's about half the price of motor spray, when you can even find motor spray.

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:57 am Once you go brushless you'll never go back. As much as brushed is fun to tinker with from time to time the benefits of brushless far outweigh the cost. Save a couple bucks over winter and buy a cheap BL before summer.

Or try that 550 you have provided you have a brushless ESC.


Your gearing isn't too far off what's recommended for a 13t, maybe a tad undergeared. 78 ÷ 14 x 2.6 = 14.49

It's really the lipo capacity that is the tipping point. I think I would be fine if I was racing, but I am running on grass and for much longer than a 5-10 minute heat.
I hadn't seriously run brushed in decades. I think If I picked a much milder motor I would be fine, but unless the vintage electronics bug hits me I'll stay on brushless from here on out.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:53 am This is identical to the Trinity comm cleaner.

K Tool International KTI (KTI-70550) Glass Fiber Sanding Pen with EXTRA sanding point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN8H52/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_EH8HYDQJA13W12C8GT6R

Like you stated, this is just like the old BITD Trinity comm cleaner sticks. This does a great job and my brushed motor collection is running much better now. Thanks again for sharing this gem.

Funnily enough I've never been a huge fan of that fibreglass cleaning pen. I always preferred the green, blue, and red comm sticks.

RC10th wrote: ↑Thu Jan 06, 2022 2:45 am Funnily enough I've never been a huge fan of that fibreglass cleaning pen. I always preferred the green, blue, and red comm sticks.

I've never seen or tried those. The stranded fiberglass sticks are what my local hobby shop used to carry. Is there anything similar to those comm sticks still available?

This is about the only picture I could find of one. Not much available that I can see, I liked that you could use it to clean the brush face and also polish the inside of the brush hood as well.

Muchmore look like they might have some square sticks though.

They still show up on Ebay.

Just last week, there were some included in a lot of brushes and springs. I already have several comm sticks and didn't need a bunch of laydown brushes, so I passed.