RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

alane wrote: ↑Wed May 18, 2022 11:30 am I would think no on that interest level, lol. If you want to know if your alloy guess is correct that gun will be at the shop tomorrow so I can check it out. I'd also assume 7050 or 7075.

Yeah man! That would be great if you could find out the material for sure! At the least the community would have the answer for the future.

Whatever route you take, avoid the green screws from the re-re's. They are very weak, known for stripping and breaking the heads off.

Sacrificed two screws in the name of science.



Science says they went with the less expensive 6061.

I will say this. I have lots of screw from various RC10's. Some seem to be better quality than others. Some seem cheap while others seem to be very good quality.

IMHO, its likely that they got whatever was available when they ordered them. Through all the years that they were used, it's likely that they used more than one supplier as well.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 5:46 pm I will say this. I have lots of screw from various RC10's. Some seem to be better quality than others. Some seem cheap while others seem to be very good quality.

IMHO, its likely that they got whatever was available when they ordered them. Through all the years that they were used, it's likely that they used more than one supplier as well.

True, these were new old stock but who knows.. I didn't use them beforehand or even have a good history with these to recognize a good from bad by feel. All I know is these were original associated screws.

Outside of corrosion or authenticity is there a reason to use aluminum? Am rebuilding my gold pan and sourced coated steel screws with the odd countersink. Is that going to cause an issue? It's not going to be a boat so the coating should be enough to keep from galvanic corrosion though I plan to watch out for it just in case.

AlexKitner wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2024 7:48 pm Outside of corrosion or authenticity is there a reason to use aluminum? Am rebuilding my gold pan and sourced coated steel screws with the odd countersink. Is that going to cause an issue? It's not going to be a boat so the coating should be enough to keep from galvanic corrosion though I plan to watch out for it just in case.

I imagine there is a negligible weight savings factor as well as the authenticity and "cool" factors. Many of the kit aluminum screws (different manufacturer) I used bitd were sheared off or came loose frequently. May have just been a 14 year old's aluminum screw experience though.

AlexKitner wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2024 7:48 pm Outside of corrosion or authenticity is there a reason to use aluminum? Am rebuilding my gold pan and sourced coated steel screws with the odd countersink. Is that going to cause an issue? It's not going to be a boat so the coating should be enough to keep from galvanic corrosion though I plan to watch out for it just in case.

The Aluminum is a bit more forgiving to the nylon parts than steel would be. I do however really like the screws that came with the rc10cc

ASC6316 rc10cc 8-32 screw set

Don't use screws with the wrong countersink. They won't sit flush and will snag as you drive. Galvanic corrosion is not an issue for rc10's

Gotcha, my only concern was maybe the 7/8 ones might strip the threads where the pan and nose meet but I'm adding a bell crank with bearings and aluminum servo saver so those nylon nuts are at best making ebay if not the trash. I only needed to replace those 2 but found the right screws, 8/32 with the special head in black oxide coating locally in bulk decided id buy new 1/2's to replace the rest of the chassis screws in majority.

I have a bag of 50 and 15 or 25 of the 7/8 so maybe I'll make a kit with the leftovers and see if I can't cover what they cost me or if they'd be desired. I could get a custom kit bagged and ready, I have worked in truck and diesel aftermarket parts manufacturing and was able to dig up this place that's more manufacturing than retail by not walking in off the street.