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Hub height comparison

Took it racing this past weekend. TQ'd the 2nd quali, started 2nd in the main , but ran out of tires and talent. My podium mates drove impeccably, to boot.

Had a blast racing it, for the first time.

Need to build some adjustability into the suspension.

If using the GT/DS servo saver with the nose plate in the long wheelbase configuration, you should attach the bellcranks/servo saver to the front holes (you might have to tap them, 8-32). Then use 1/4" (100*) screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis.

Jeep-Power wrote: ↑Thu Sep 05, 2024 10:31 am Took it racing this past weekend. TQ'd the 2nd quali, started 2nd in the main , but ran out of tires and talent. My podium mates drove impeccably, to boot.

Had a blast racing it, for the first time.

Need to build some adjustability into the suspension.



img_1_1725402342422.jpg

The photo I want to see is your super cool retro buggy with all of the modern stuff you beat.

Doing some quick math and knowing the size of an RC10, I am thinking you are approximately 8 foot 3. Is that about right?

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Sep 05, 2024 11:18 am If using the GT/DS servo saver with the nose plate in the long wheelbase configuration, you should attach the bellcranks/servo saver to the front holes (you might have to tap them, 8-32). Then use 1/4" (100*) screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis.

ahhh-- this will probably improve the steering geometry significantly. thank you!

1911Colt wrote: ↑Thu Sep 05, 2024 12:12 pm

The photo I want to see is your super cool retro buggy with all of the modern stuff you beat.

Doing some quick math and knowing the size of an RC10, I am thinking you are approximately 8 foot 3. Is that about right?

that will be a good photo -- next time! With that said --the heat was all rear-motor cars.

haha -- close. 6'6"

Had this buggy and the B44.3 out at a friend's backyard clay track this weekend. Making the triple was not possible with this car, but the double was doable, sometimes. Had a blast.

The 8T motor is playing havoc with the ball diff- my slipper must be too tight or I just haven't set the diff correctly. It's all kinds of gritty, with new ceramic balls.

Upgrades!

The factory nylon front block was not able to retain the shock tower screws.


Went with the blue aluminum DHawk front block to support the 4mm front shock tower.

Tore the diff down - the new ceramic balls and rings were trashed. Honed the rings smooth & flat and installed some new AE carbide balls I happened to have.

Now, I have been running these cars for over 30 years, but I am embarrassed to admit I never really knew how to properly set up a ball diff. Usually just tightened it down and sent it.

Just watched Spencer Rivkin's videos on ball diff and slipper setup - made a huge improvement and took the guesswork out of the process.

Diff build - I think he uses WAY too much clear grease, but he is a WC. Some good tips, none-the-less - https://youtu.be/lWXnyoxFwCc?si=GVR48U_8ZXZz7YVw

Diff break-in & tune; this is where the magic happens - https://youtu.be/eoFrvin7zrU?si=4_P6xLwXJ3HjtCth


Oh, and this is a great AE vid with TJ Eller on slipper clutch setup - https://youtu.be/g9xW2IN62So?si=ipVlZCqp1o5wxIs4