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I like the Andy's bumper the best, but also have some RPM and CRP bumpers.

That's a nice T2 and would make a great runner.

Personally I like the stock bumper the most.

As others have said upgrading to a mild brushless and lipos would give you the most fun in terms of good power and runtime. Just beware that standard square case lipos don't fit the T2 very well without modification. If you want to keep it stock pick yourself up some round lipos.

The T2 is pretty robust so unless you run into lots of things your likely to experience little in the way of breakages. Just keep the rear arm mounts tight and your diff adjusted properly.

Going to order two quick run 1060's one for the T2 and one for the pan car and put the Novak esc into a shelf queen. Do I need a mount for a bumper or can I use the four screws under the front suspension? I have a couple of bumper options in one of my boxes of parts. As far as batteries I thought I read somewhere by a member here there was a company making 2s lipo batteries the same dimensions as a 7 or 8 cell stick pack but I can't find it now.
Can these motors be rebuilt, bearings and brushes?

Thank you all for the great responses and ideas!!

The Green Machine will be harder to do, as it has a crimped on endbell. However, the brushes are easily changed.

The other can be disassembled and serviced easily.

While you can't directly tell by appearance, both motors look to be in excellent condition. Chances are, they probably don't need much.


The CRP bumpers mount with two of the bulkhead screws. Andy's and RPM bumpers use all four.

I think that I used slightly longer screws with the CRP, as it was a little thicker. Common 8-32 screws, probably 5/8" long.

You can't use common screws at the pan, because the angle is different. But they work fine for the plastic bumper.

Good to know on the motors. I have another Green Machine 2 motor i can use for parts as well as its pretty worn. going to look for my bumpers tonight, I think one is an RPM.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 11:25 am The Green Machine will be harder to do, as it has a crimped on endbell. However, the brushes are easily changed.

The other can be disassembled and serviced easily.

While you can't directly tell by appearance, both motors look to be in excellent condition. Chances are, they probably don't need much.


The CRP bumpers mount with two of the bulkhead screws. Andy's and RPM bumpers use all four.

I think that I used slightly longer screws with the CRP, as it was a little thicker. Common 8-32 screws, probably 5/8" long.

You can't use common screws at the pan, because the angle is different. But they work fine for the plastic bumper.

I used regular bulkhead screws when I was running a crp bumper and there wasn't an issue.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 12:55 pm I used regular bulkhead screws when I was running a crp bumper and there wasn't an issue.

I just checked. I used 3/4" button head screws on mine.

I wanted to maximize the thread engagement in the bulkhead. I could have countersunk the bumper but choose the keep the material thicker.

Overvolted wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 11:09 am Going to order two quick run 1060's one for the T2 and one for the pan car and put the Novak esc into a shelf queen. Do I need a mount for a bumper or can I use the four screws under the front suspension? I have a couple of bumper options in one of my boxes of parts. As far as batteries I thought I read somewhere by a member here there was a company making 2s lipo batteries the same dimensions as a 7 or 8 cell stick pack but I can't find it now.
Can these motors be rebuilt, bearings and brushes?

Thank you all for the great responses and ideas!!

From the photo, those look to be in really good condition. I'd personally keep them as shelf queens, especially the Diamond motor.

Those are some nice motors, I'd definitely put the Diamond on a shelf to display. Both of them can be serviced but the Diamond can be fully torn apart and rebuilt. As mentioned the motors look to be in fantastic shape so I doubt they would really need anything. Pulling the brushes out and having a look would tell you a lot about the motor.

You'd likely do more damage to the green machine trying to get it apart so unless it's stuffed I wouldn't bother taking it apart.

Overvolted wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 11:09 am As far as batteries I thought I read somewhere by a member here there was a company making 2s lipo batteries the same dimensions as a 7 or 8 cell stick pack but I can't find it now.

Any "round" style 7.2v lipo battery should fit without any modifications, they were commonly called Tamiya style lipos. If you do a Google search for "Tamiya Lipo" you will get many options from a bunch of different manufacturers. They are slightly longer than a standard 6 cell NiCd/NiMh battery but shorter than a 7 cell battery. "Square" lipos can be made to fit with modifications but won't fit the stock holder.

In my runner T2 I chose to modify my battery mount slightly by cutting out the connecting brace for an even better fit while retaining a bone stock appearance. I also bought a spare battery holder and foam pad if I ever want to change it back for some reason.

I value the opinions of you guys on this site. ill display the Diamond and Green Machine and not thrash them, they made it this far or maybe horse trade for some 1/10 pan car parts with someone who collects old motors. Going to order a Protekrc battery, that is exactly what I need for my older models.

Speaking of bumpers, is the front section of the bulkhead removed?
If so, I'd definitely add something. Even a mini bumper is better than nothing

There was nothing there when I got it. I do need something for protection.

Overvolted wrote: ↑Tue Jun 13, 2023 2:04 pm There was nothing there when I got it. I do need something for protection.

I am not sure that it actually protects much beyond the body. Bumpers are usually a good idea, but most of the strength will come from the bulkhead and the nose tubes.

The stock "bumper" and the angled part of the nose it attaches to would cause damage on impact so it was often trimmed and a rpm or similar bumper used instead.

When I make bumpers, they are the max width without wheel rub. Not pretty but the best protection I can give the truck against the results of my 'driving skills'.
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