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coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 6:10 pm

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 5:54 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 4:25 pm I had to take out the MIP ball diff and pit in a stock Frog gear diff...tranny and clutch bell roll over super free!

Did you do the "Frogshot Mod" to it?

I don't know what that is..lol!

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142

I use a 4-40 screw. Drill one side to 3mm and tap the other to 4-40. Button head screw and red Loctite.

It actually works better with the re-re's outdrives, compared to the older hex.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 7:29 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 6:10 pm

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 5:54 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 4:25 pm I had to take out the MIP ball diff and pit in a stock Frog gear diff...tranny and clutch bell roll over super free!

Did you do the "Frogshot Mod" to it?

I don't know what that is..lol!

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142

I use a 4-40 screw. Drill one side to 3mm and tap the other to 4-40. Button head screw and red Loctite.

It actually works better with the re-re's outdrives, compared to the older hex.

Great idea!

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 7:29 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 6:10 pm

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 5:54 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 4:25 pm I had to take out the MIP ball diff and pit in a stock Frog gear diff...tranny and clutch bell roll over super free!

Did you do the "Frogshot Mod" to it?

I don't know what that is..lol!

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142

I use a 4-40 screw. Drill one side to 3mm and tap the other to 4-40. Button head screw and red Loctite.

It actually works better with the re-re's outdrives, compared to the older hex.

But, I don't see a thrust bearing under the head of the screw??

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:29 am But, I don't see a thrust bearing under the head of the screw??

I put some grease there. It's not even snug (red Loctite keeps it in place). The screw keeps the diff from separating under load.

Not enough room for anything else. With the hex axles, they can rub the screw.

I tried to fit a tiny thrust in there and it was a no go. The diff functions normally when not under a severe load, it will only really try to lock itself up when there is a lot of force on the screw- which is kinda perfect really. Loctite is not an option, its a requirement

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:55 am

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:29 am But, I don't see a thrust bearing under the head of the screw??

I put some grease there. It's not even snug (red Loctite keeps it in place). The screw keeps the diff from separating under load.

Not enough room for anything else. With the hex axles, they can rub the screw.

When throttle trigger is pulled (or pushed), the screw is under a load.

Jeff, don't you make replacement FRP or carbon side plates for the ORV trans? I think that's a better solution. The existing diff bearings will handle thrust and diff will function as it should. ... then allow the hex drives to fail as they do.

Pretty sure Tamiya stamps the stock crap "plates" from a beer can.

we made some in the past but dont currently offer any. I need to re-explore them at some point. I wasnt happy with the fit

If you have the option, the MIP diff, Blackfoot counter gear, and re-re dogbones/CVD's is a better option.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 1:43 pm If you have the option, the MIP diff, Blackfoot counter gear, and re-re dogbones/CVD's is a better option.

Or, buy a truck from Kyosho.

Or, buy a truck from Kyosho.
[/quote]

Say what?

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:03 pm Or, buy a truck from Kyosho.

The Kyosho equivalent to a Blackfoot would be a Big Brute or Hi Rider Corvette.

Both have full plastic diffs (not nylon, plastic) diffs. Only the outdrives are metal, and they look like cast. The spider gears don't even have metal shafts.

The dogbones are also plastic and wear very fast.

My Cox Bandido shares some driveline parts with them, so I am very familiar with how fast they wear and how easily they break.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 7:45 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:03 pm Or, buy a truck from Kyosho.

The Kyosho equivalent to a Blackfoot would be a Big Brute or Hi Rider Corvette.

Both have full plastic diffs (not nylon, plastic) diffs. Only the outdrives are metal, and they look like cast. The spider gears don't even have metal shafts.

The dogbones are also plastic and wear very fast.

My Cox Bandido shares some driveline parts with them, so I am very familiar with how fast they wear and how easily they break.

I was thinking more along the lines of a Mad Van -- based upon the Fazer MK2. They use modern plastics, are very well built and from what I've seen, are practically indestructible. I believe there is (or was) a nitro version of the Fazer as well.

The nitro Monster Beetle that Derek is building will, of course, be extremely cool -- no question about that. I just wonder about the durability of the driveline and if vibration from that motor will turn the abs plastic chassis into dust. I guess time will tell. I've been wrong before. Once, I think.

One of those Chinese aluminum chassis and some aluminum trailing arm would be cool

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 7:45 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:03 pm Or, buy a truck from Kyosho.

The spider gears don't even have metal shafts.

My Nitro Brute has MIP metal shafts on the bevel gears!...I cut a driver down, drilled the bevels and put the hardened shafts in...the tranny is indestructible and I put some hard miles in on that Nitro Brute!

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:15 pm One of those Chinese aluminum chassis and some aluminum trailing arm would be cool

Yes, I agree.

Actually, forget what I've said about using a Kyosho truck. I reckon Derek's MB should be riding its Tamiya ORV or some variant or it loses much of its cool factor.

If you're not already doing so, please ignore the rambling from this old man.