RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The other thing I've read repeatedly is around the Ackerman angle being a problem, so experimenting with an aluminum set up fom a Traxxas rustler, just waiting on some ball cups and sort out some temporary 3mm threaded bar to measure up turnbuckles.
Long though, over 60mm!
Moved the Lipo cradle as far forward as possible.
Should be able to fit the ESC behind it if I use a Shorty low CG pack.
Means i may have to run a low-profile servo, but still want to put as much weight forward.

Manobet in France fabricates a brass bulkhead for the Triumph, but there's a reason you PM him for prices, that amazing work he does costs for a reason.
So pretty, and unbelievable craftmanship but not in my budget unfortunately,

Vice grips, a belt sander, dremmel and some patience, Trying something different on the inside of the front bulkhead instead.
Certainly not that level,but making do without a CNC.
Contemplating using the leftover brass to fit one under the servo if the geometry allows the servo horn and to clear the body.
Need a smaller countersink bit to finish but getting closer.

How is the TBG body compared to the blue one you have assuming its OEM? I have a Triumph that I built years ago NIB but I"ve always wanted to paint another body that was box-art.

Its good, compared it to the factory shell? (blue in my case), TBG is slightly thicker, but the roll cage pressing is accurate, and the 3-piece wing is accurate too.
I also got an undertray and gear cover from team penguin in the UK.
I must have got 8 or 10 shells from TBG and always been mint, couldn't recommend them enough.
Hope that helps.

Got some Kyosho front end parts to sort out the triumph, trying to find a solution to the front wheels, I wanted to go Yokomo, but very hard to get the narrow fronts, same with ball raced front wheels, i know that JG Racing does them but shipping is just silly, so looking at 14mm hex instead.
Trying various combinations but RB6 look promising, and easy to source if i break them.
Also trying
Kyosho UM763B Front Knuckle Arm (RB7)
Kyosho UM715B Front Hub Carrier Set (RB6)
Kyosho UM578 Front Knuckle Carrier Set (Ultima SB)
Kyosho UM569 Steel Axle Shaft (RB5/2-Set)
Kyosho UTW014 JJ Rear Wing Stay Set

See how fitment goes, but have various aluminum 3mm spacers to tinker with.

M14 X 0.5MM tap to make 3/4 length gold shocks,
Same delivery were some new rere gold shocks, and seperately a 14mm x 0.5mm tap.
If i have measured correctly with my suddenly squinting aged eyes i can re thread the internal of the longer rear shock body
Kyosho OTW129B Gold Damper Rear and cut them down to recreate the mid length triumph long front shock.
Another guy had started this on FB but have not confirmed the thread yet.
If i stuff it up i guess ill have a flash Rocky 3 shock set up. and a cross threaded shock body in the bin.

Liking the alloy steering set up now, ball raced it, added a few shims and had to sort out some clearance with the bell crank.
It was rubbing on the top deck, moved it down 6mm, all good now.

Because I moved the battery tray as far forward as I could it was very tight with a standard servo.
I had to decide if moving the reasonably light shorty lipo forward, was better than the weight difference between a standard and low-profile servo.
The S9551 is 45g or 1.59oz, https://futabausa.com/product/s9551/
the servo I was intending to use was S9451 full size metal gear 56g or 1.98oz, https://servodatabase.com/servo/futaba/s9451
So not a huge difference, And I found a couple locally at a good secondhand price.
With the huge amount of 25 tooth alloy servo savers from the booming rock climber scale trucks it was easy to find a saver with enough throw but still low enough profile.
It's actually not that easy to find the old school Kimbrough style anymore.
Still around in 1:12 scale sometimes.
Couple of 5mm x 3mm spacers and shims held the cranks nice and snug too.
Alloy Servo mounts were from GPM for a Tamiya TA06.

Wow, such a stunning build!

I have a general question, how related are the Triumphs with the Ultimas ? I'm not very knowledged on Kyosho stuff.

Totally different animal, shared a few parts with the Lazer Zx-r at the time.
I liked it instantly, as all Kyosho had for the previous 10 years were Ultima variants, inevitably this ultima lineage continued being a geartrain and suspension for "scale series" 2wd cars and cheaper models.
The Triumph never did very well, it had a power hungry double belt gearbox, poor Ackerman steering ( from zx-r) and finally faced quality competition in 1993 from Losi,with the XX Schumacher Cougar and Associated Rc10.
It looked great on paper narrow chassis, long arms, long shock travel, but with the other race options at the time it was bypassed.and replaced the following year with the first of the Pro x buggies.
Madweasel has a link to optima house here
http://ultimahouse.blogspot.com/2010/01/genealogy-of-ultima-series.html?m=1

Theres loads of guys here who know more specifics than me on this one, I just always wanted one at the time.
Hope this helps.

Finally found some time to get back on my build, amazing how time runs away.
Had some YOKOMO adapters for Kyosho optima (I think #TH-6?) and had a play with retro fitting Optima spindles onto various setups from later model Kyosho Ultima models.
Initially I grabbed some parts ff my old RB5 and then bought UM715B RB Front carrier set, UM763B Knuckle set, UM569 Front axle shafts.

Finally settled on UM715B RB Series hubs as they had the change out caster inserts, and were readily available with the dirt master re release.
I did need to cut down and face off some 3mm pins and installed some alloy 3mm id x 3mm wide washers to fit snugly to the triumph arms on the factory pins.

Next problem was my Brass bulkhead, the thickness meant I had to mount the 4.8m ball ends on the front of the shock tower,
I tapped M3 and fitted up nice, but of course this meant the tie rod now fouled on the spring (urghhhhh!!!)

Sorted this with an off set 4.8mm alloy ball end from some 1/16 scale rock climbing chassis braces.
M3 Threads quite hard to find, this meant i had to put the left-hand thread on the opposite (chassis) side, as I can tap the Kyosho ball ends readily, not so much the aluminum.
Re did them all to match.
The steering also clears now, was not the case initially, although i used low profile ball ends and it did clear on the inside, it was extremely snug,and fouled when on full throw.