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icanfixyourford wrote: ↑Tue Mar 25, 2025 9:23 pm

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Tue Mar 25, 2025 3:59 pm It's not a big deal, but this nose plate mount screw hole is the one I don't like.
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I was looking at that tonight. Probably clean up countersink and make a bushing to resize the hole. I've got a lathe and I'm not afraid to use it!

A little bushing would be cool. Just be aware that the correct countersink angle for the correct chassis screws is 100 degrees.

Good to know, thanks!

So, a little progress; got the measles-looking pan bead blasted, epoxy primered, and painted with VHT Burnt Copper.
Cleaned and dyed black all the purple plastics.
Started reassembly, but I need to pick up some new hardware, and many other parts.
Slow but steady progress. It will probably need to be put on pause for a few weeks while I collect inventory for it, and handle some spring yard projects, and some time sensitive items at work.

That turned out nice. For chassis screws, KNK stainless are nice. The nose plate needs a single 1/4" 8-32, the steering bellcranks need a pair of 7/8" 8-32, and the gearbox, front and rear suspension mounts, rear bulkhead, and body mounts use about 2 dozen (probably actually 18) 1/2" 8-32 screws. All are 100 degree head. Most other stuff is normal countersunk and socket head 4-40 screws.

https://teamknkhardware.com/product/8-32-stainless-screws-sae/

The oddball is the 5-40 unlock nut for the gearbox diff nut. Custom Works RC has those:

https://www.customworksrc.com/product/5-40-steel-locknut-for-topshaft/

That VHT came out great!

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:49 pm The oddball is the 5-40 unlock nut for the gearbox diff nut. Custom Works RC has those:

https://www.customworksrc.com/product/5-40-steel-locknut-for-topshaft/

I use these RJ Speed ones on my transmissions. They are lower profile, similar to the ones that JG used to offer.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rj-speed-front-wheels-locknuts-540-6-rjs7207/p657231?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-tSm4qC-jAMVtivUAR2D0wIOEAQYASABEgIbZfD_BwE

Well, now that the spring semester is over, and I've completed my leadership project, I've been able to return to my build (at least before the summer semester begins and a whole other set of work projects begin ).

I continued the 6-gear build, using the aforementioned cut-down outdrives as idlers, good used outdrives and pinions/diff tube/diff shaft, D-Hawk aluminum bearing adapters, and pinned ball diff drive plates.

I also went with modern electronics. Got a Hobbywing 13.5T sensored brushless and 60A ESC, Gens Ace Redline 140C 2S battery, and scavenged a Spektrum DX2 from a recently acquired Vaterra Ascender 1st gen Bronco. The Vaterra got a Meus Racing 10-channel radio, $50 on Amazon. I was skeptical, but it's fantastic! And the Spektrum is perfect for the RC10. Grabbed a small servo for the steering, and went with 23/81 gears to start.
I also went with Du-Bro swivel links, in place of ball studs and cups, where I could. I always hated the ball cups popping off at the least opportune moments...

Lastly, I went with two set of wheels and tires- (barcodes on white JConcepts, pins on Jammin Jay fronts and stock dyed rears).
I also wanted a box art body, or close to it.
I'm pretty pleased with it. It will do a backflip if you hammer the throttle from a stop, or pull the front wheels up for 20-30 feet with a gentle roll-on
I still have some things to tidy up (zip tie wiring, front sway bar), but I'm calling it done.
Now it's time to clean up my horrid workbench!

icanfixyourford wrote: ↑Sun Jun 08, 2025 8:54 pm I still have some things to tidy up (zip tie wiring, front sway bar), but I'm calling it done.

Whaa??? Nooo... Gotta curl that wiring like it's 1989!



From carcass to kickass... looks like it'll be a blast to drive.

[/quote]

Whaa??? Nooo... Gotta curl that wiring like it's 1989!



From carcass to kickass... looks like it'll be a blast to drive.
[/quote]

I might have to do that! And I like that; carcass to kickass! Thanks!!