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The "rpm world's castor block" was a special designed front knuckle and caster block. You can see it here on my worlds buggy

Weave wrote:Please excuse my ignorance on the subject of the various RC10 buggy versions as I have only owned 10T's.

Recently I have been intrigued with the buildups, such as this one and the ones by aeiou and scr8p, of a 'modernized' RC10 using a 10T nose plate and the dynotech arms, etc. I have found many of the buildup details in several threads, but none appear to mention what rear A-arm mounts to use. I assumed I could use the 10T's or find a mount that is still in production. However, this thread is brings up a bunch of questions with the mention of the world's rear mounts. What mounts will work with the dynotech arms? I know mounts will vary in degrees of toe in and anti-squat and possibly length, but do they also vary the wheelbase?

i'm sure you've seen this thread already, but it has probably everything you need to know on how to build up a "modernized" rc10. david (Asso_man) has done this conversion also. when i find the thread i'll attach that link also.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5483

david's thread : http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1649&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

any arm mount for the rc10 or 10t will work for a build like the ones in the link with the rpm worlds/dynotech arms. although, they are all discontinued.

now, the with the worlds arm mounts (which are also discontiuned and very hard to find), you have to narrow the rear of the chassis. doing so, you won't be able to use b4 wheels.

Weave wrote:and also shed some light on the "rpm world's castor block" mentioned above?

i think that was actually i misprint. i think he was talking about the rpm hub carriers.

Weave wrote:and also shed some light on the "rpm world's castor block" mentioned above?

i think that was actually i misprint. i think he was talking about the rpm hub carriers.

Maybe he is referring to the RPM rear suspension mounts specifically for the worlds rear? I couldn't pinpoint the correct part name and called them castor blocks, but on my car I have the chassis trimmed for the narrow rear conversion.

Thanks for the links sc8p, I have seen them before and forgot all about them. Good pictures to go by in both of those threads. I still have some questions about shock setups, however, the rest of the chassis is going together like clockwork. Since I am using a 10t rear tower I test fit some 1.32 shocks on the rear and it seems as the arms are completely level with the chassis/ground, will this be enough shock travel or are there other shock body/shaft combos I can work with from Associated to raise it up a bit?

skunk.werkz wrote:Since I am using a 10t rear tower I test fit some 1.32 shocks on the rear and it seems as the arms are completely level with the chassis/ground

is there limiters in the shocks? with 1.32 bodies and shafts, they should be plenty long enough.

Yeah, I have the internal limiters on the rears. I thought they were somewhat neccesary but I understand their purpose and it makes sense that if I were to remove all three I would increase shock travel, I will take them out and see how everything looks, thanks!

you might end up needing to add spacers on the outside of the shock shaft to limit the shocks compression so that the dogbone doesn't bind in the outdrive because of too much up travel.

OK guys...hold the tomatoes but I gotta ask "the" question..( )..what was the advantage of the worlds car? I'm kinda new to this whole vintage thing and am learning but would like to know what the big hoopla was/is all about. I bid and won an auction lately for a worlds car but I believe I was hoopla'd in to the word and didn't actually get one. Thanx and hope you guys stop laughing long enuf to get some answers to me .
Todd

klavy69 wrote:OK guys...hold the tomatoes but I gotta ask "the" question..( )..what was the advantage of the worlds car? I'm kinda new to this whole vintage thing and am learning but would like to know what the big hoopla was/is all about. I bid and won an auction lately for a worlds car but I believe I was hoopla'd in to the word and didn't actually get one. Thanx and hope you guys stop laughing long enuf to get some answers to me .
Todd

i assume your wondering about the narrow chassis, wide arms, etc., correct? read this article and you'll understand the advantages.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1002

So lets say I have a pile of money sitting around and it has always been my dream to build a detroit replica using modern parts. I have a rebuilt stealth transmission and a RC10Ce as a donor. Here are some of my questions

1. Where can you get a double deck (composite craft) chassis?
2. I see a lot of people are using the RC10T front end? What are the minum parts you need and where can you get them?
3. Has anyone tackled mounting the shocks backwards?

I'm going to order some parts off Tower Hobbies tonight. Hopefully use some updated B4 parts (hubs, turnbuckles, etc.). I know there are a few threads on this but nothing really concerning an "up to date" type replica.

Thanks in advance guys!

1) well.... depending on how big the pile of money you have is, you might be able to find a chassis fairly quick.

2) the composite craft worlds chassis is based of the rpm ultra molded chassis, which is designed to use the rpm worlds, or 10t/gt front bulkhead. that's why everyone uses them. with the double deck chassis, you HAVE to use the 10t/gt bulkhead.

3) hoopty has 2 double deck chassis' with a reversed front shock tower. he doesn't know who made them, though.

Thanks scr8p!

1. The pile is big
2. There is a new 10T bulkhead on e-bay right now
3. Guess I'll have to modify/research some way of reversing the tower. Maybe a custom front tower?

is it a white bulkhead (on ebay)? you can still buy them in black pretty much anywhere.

Yep is white, I would prefer black though. I'm kind of looking to do a "What if I was Masami's teammate"