RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

a01butal wrote:Another member here aeiou built an awesome car and cut down the tub and polished it. This is one of the coolest builds I've seen here. Here's the link just page halfway down the page:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15

thanks...I had to save all those photos too! Gives me lots of ideas.....

Got it today....oh, I have my work cut out for me....I already have it torn down 100% in 4 different containers soaking in Simple green. Maybe I'll
move my buffer from the garage to the basement......

Stripped the tub with Oven Cleaner.....I sure have my work cut out for me. The chassis is tweaked a bit, and will need alot of
sanding to get the deep scratches out.....

If you have access to a belt sander the scrathes in the bottom can be eliminated in just a few minutes. Don't worry too much about how it looks now. Mine looked like that too - thought I'd never get it clean! I did mine in small steps over a period of days so I wouldn't get burnt out. Did you remember to strip the nose plate?

RedScampi wrote:If you have access to a belt sander the scrathes in the bottom can be eliminated in just a few minutes. Don't worry too much about how it looks now. Mine looked like that too - thought I'd never get it clean! I did mine in small steps over a period of days so I wouldn't get burnt out. Did you remember to strip the nose plate?

I have a few sanders....might use a orbital w/ 400 first to get the rough stuff out.

I have not touched the nose plate yet... I had a stripped screw holding the front body mount post..I need to
dig out my dremel to slot the screw to get it out first.

a orbital sander with the fine sandpaper, not ultra fine, just like the 240+ grit fine. keep the wheel moving and it will take like 2-3 to get the chassis smooth again.

if you plan to polish it though, you are gonna need to hand sand it with a ultra fine paper first. then i like to use a Ryobi "C" buffing compount to pre buff to get the sanding marks out.. then a White Rouge Ryobi Compound to make it mirror like.

mikedealer wrote:a orbital sander with the fine sandpaper, not ultra fine, just like the 240+ grit fine. keep the wheel moving and it will take like 2-3 to get the chassis smooth again.

if you plan to polish it though, you are gonna need to hand sand it with a ultra fine paper first. then i like to use a Ryobi "C" buffing compount to pre buff to get the sanding marks out.. then a White Rouge Ryobi Compound to make it mirror like.

I'm sure I can figure it out...you saw my bike on the 1st page of the thread, right?

I'm thinking I want to RIT dye the nylon dark blue, or black....my first RC10 was blue parts....

i have tried stripping and reanodizing and powder coating they look great but nothing like a factory job to keep it original.

I just started stripping the bad gold with that oven cleaner......Amazing! Looks like hell when you pull it out, but a little scrubbing with a toothbrush, & it's ready for sanding & polishing.I'll follow some of the tips I've read here for that part. I like that look. Those 2 polished tubs above look real sharp.

Unfortunately mine still looks the same. I need to pick up a bench vice to mount to my bench so I can straighten my chassis. It has a
slight warp to it, and I will kick myself if I put it back together like it is.

Dig this........ Oven cleaner takes the anodizing off, but won't touch the paint! ZipStrip took care of that.