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This was posted by the guy that runs a dirt oval here in nashville, it helped me out a lot.

The Handling Guide

Directions: Do one of the following change to your vehicle at a time and drive test.
Keep good notes (It's hard to do at the track but try to keep a log it really helps).
Also, don't forget to have fun....

Phase 1 (going into the turn)

If the vehicle is loose at turn entry then..(needs more traction)

(1) Right front spring is to soft use a harder spring
(2) You need to add more crossweight - by adding a round to the right front spring (add weight to the left rear tire).
(3) Change left front spring to a softer spring.
(4) Lower chassis - keeping it level with the rear.
(5) Reduce front right caster (no less than 2 degree min.)

OR If the vehicle is pushing into the trun entry then..

(1) Right front spring needs to be softer.
(2) You need to reduce the crossweight - by taking out a round to the right front spring (add weight to the front left tire)
(3) Increasing right rear spring tension by one round
(4) Increase front right caster (6 degrees max.)

Phase 2 (the middle of the turn)

If the vehicle is loose in the middle of the turn then...(needs more traction)

(1) Increasing the crossweight by adding a round to the front right and left rear evenly (add weight to the left rear tire)
(2) Use a harder spring to the left rear
(3) The right rear spring needs to be decrease a round (less spring tension)

OR If the vehicle pushes in the middle of the turn then...(needs more steering)

(1) Decrease crossweight by taking out a round to the front right and left rear evenly
(2) Use a softer spring to the right rear
(3) The right rear spring needs to be increase a round (more spring tension)

Phase 3 (coming out of the turn..)

If the vehicle is loose coming out of the turn then..(needs more traction)

(1) Stagger needs to be decreased on the right side
(2) Increase crossweight by adding a round of spring tension to the right front and left rear evenly (add weight to the left rear tire)
(3) Check if right rear spring tension is to much - if it is then take a round out of spring.
(4) Decrease rear springs evenly to the right and left rear.
(5) Use a soft tire in the rear

OR If the vehicle pushes coming out of the turn then...(needs more steering)

(1) Stagger needs to be increased on the right side if present.
(2) Decrease crossweight by reducing a round of spring tension to the right front and left rear evenly (add weight to the front left tire)
(3) Increase right rear spring tension a round.
(4) Increase rear springs evenly to the right and left rear.

ford cook, this is the last place I figured id ever find a fellow racer of the 1:1 scale. I dont thing I have enough to run a 360 non winged but I would shur jump on it if some said to lol. I always ran the big cars for the most part I did get a shot in a IMCA style car but that was as fast as I have ridden on dirt. I dont know what hubs is on the truck but the rear sits pretty flat when on the table. As far as what you said about getting tghe truck to turn in the first two stages of the corner and having a lil push on exit, I dont mind that I acually prefer a set up where the truck, well any car for that matter, will push on exit that helps keep me from over driving it and sliding it out which as you know kills momentum. Now on the front caster blocks I adjusted the upper arm? and made it so that the top of the left tire stuck oyt so that when I am in a corner and the suspension is working then that will push the bottom of the tire out forcing it to have a wider track. As done on my real cars. About the only thing I can move around in the truck is the ESC and of coarse the reciever. Everything else is pretty statonary. Its like it was said in Days Of Thunder "slow is smooth smooth is fast". I have a race tomorrow night I will let you know how things go. Probually not good lol. I haven't raced rc cars in about 6years. I don't race the real ones no more either DR.s orders. So I got back into these.

markt311 Thanks for what you have poted there, any and all information is usefull. Don't take no offence to this as I will be using both your's and PBR Allstar's info, but I have about 4 of these sheets scattered about the shop.


John

I did some of what you guys said and it helped out a lot and for that I am verry greatfull, however I need RUBBER!!!!! Here is a pic from earlier.

Bent,
Glad some of the tricks worked for you. Most of the dirt oval truck classes require running rubber tires, in which case I would recommend the proline striker II's. stay away from the road hawg tires. New rubber will make a big difference!
As far as the big car, I don't spend as much running it as you'd think. Up here in northern Ca we have a great up and coming class they have named "360 spec sprints". Pretty much all standard sprint rules except: iron heads and block, self starting, 2bbl 500 cfm carburetor, and No Titainium parts. The car weight has to be 1500 with driver as opposed the 1285 which is pretty standard for a winged 360 car. At the track I primarily run at, Petaluma Speedway, our cars are about 2.5 seconds quicker per lap than the IMCA modifieds, and about 1.5 seconds slower than the winged 360 cars on the 3/8 mile track. The car counts are getting very good, most of last season we had B mains every week on top of the 22 car starting feilds, not to mention 50-60 cars at some of the post season open shows. The driver quality is also very good leading to minimal cautions and tearing up equipment which is much more than I can say about the IMCA guys at the tracks around here. I can do a season on a set of front tires and about 3/4 of a season on the rears. It's a class I hope continues to catch on at more tracks because it's truly great racing that really gets back to the roots of short track racing.

Here's the car.

The driver quality is also very good leading to minimal cautions and tearing up equipment which is much more than I can say about the IMCA guys at the tracks around here.......................I* can completely agree to this man. I dont know how may times our guys kill them bodys just to make a couple hundred if that. I hope that class that you run catches on down here it looks like it would be a blast to watch. I'd show you my old boat but I cant get the blasted thing to up load on here.

I almost always use prolines when I aint in a crunch. I hav been thinking about Hole Shots I knoticed that the guys that was running the had a tremendious amount of grip as apposed to any onther tire. But Now the car is decaled all up the new motor is in the box ready to go in. All I need now is 20.00 12.00 to race and teh rest for a set of deans plugs.

Just wanted to give you guys a bnit of an uupdate and let you know that I have been running the truck but I have not been racing it much. The class that I run it in allows me to use a 19t motor and that just isnt enough to out run with the newer carbon cars that is out. I could move up to the unlimited class but then I can swing the fgreen needed for a lipo set up, and thats what all the unlimited guys run. well here is a couple pics for yall. Oh I am currently rebuilding my buggy and plan on running it with foam tires.

As some of you may know I have had this up for sale for a few days with no luck. Well I decided to keep it it has been for sale for 3 months now with no luck.

My question to you guys is what would the best yet least exspensive way to make these old trucks light and look better. I know you can cut them down but I dont want to make it weak and the cheese grader isnt my thing. I want to repaint or powdercoat the chassis but not sure what the best way would be to go at this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Replacing the 3-piece wheels with the solid (7842/7802) wheels will save you 55-60 grams total, if memory serves me right.

If you’re planning to refinish the chassis, you could leave it natural – powder coating, paint and such adds weight. Plus, if you leave it shiny, it will help to get the corner marshal’s attention should you find yourself on your shell.

Thats a good idea I never thought to do that, leave it raw like you said. Will cutting the chassis dow serverly destroy the integrety of it? This is a heavy truck and thats why I wasnt ing to sell it. Beens I can I wanna shed some weight. Again with out cheese grading it.