RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I understand the slow thing and the kid thing. My kids are both in college now, so I should have more time to play. It never seems to work like that, though.

winter is right around the corner which = more time indoors to work on projects...have accumulated almost enough parts for a queen and a runner

http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-LOSI-JUNIOR-TWO-TIE-ROD-LINK-SET-A-4050_W0QQitemZ350102712550QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5183bf70e6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

If you want oe parts you can't beat the price. Yes turnbuckles are easier, but they will also cost a bit more.

How does anybody who has a runner attach their servo to the car??? I have read threads about a graphite servo mount but can't seem to find one on the net...the instructions i have mention using double sided tape, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough...any help with this question would be greatly appreciated.

I like to fit atleast one plastic servo post to any steering servo I have to stick down with double sided tape. I'll drill an extra hole in the chassis if there isnt one and countersink it. Make certain you clean both the servo and chassis areas you will be attaching the double sided tape to so that you get the best possible adhesion. Oil residue, dust etc... will foul the adhesion properties of the tape so I use either motor cleaner spray or the like to prep both surfaces. Make sure you have a servo saver fitted to the servo and this should keep you out of trouble.

shellite to clean servo/chassis. 3m super thin double sided tape is just magic, availible from panel/paint shops.

I used to use servo tape only and it worked fine. I good name brand servo tape will work ,the Bolink was always good to me and it usually came of well( in a few pieces instead of separating and then picking at it ) but on that chassis you can use and associated B4 mounts if you want to drill the chassis.

project is coming along nicely for my first attempt at restoring a car...will have to pick up a shell for this one and stash her on the shelf...i would like to thank anybody who offered any help/ advice...have just about enough parts left over for a runner...can anybody suggest a driveshaft for me??? you guys are great

Looks great! I like the natural wheels. You don't see them much. Get a body from Mr. Lexan. Pricey but perfect. I got a bluegroove body and it's of dissappointing quality.

RedScampi wrote:Pricey but perfect.

Why do you think so?

No offense intended. It's just at the high end of my pocketbook is all. Or did you mean why do I think it's perfect?

The pricey side...... I don't think they are pricey, not for what you get. Quality, no shatter concerns like TBG, window masks, and overspray film, and all three pieces: wing, gear cover, and body.

mrlexan wrote: no shatter concerns like TBG,

Can't say about the TBG version, but the Mrlexan body is tough. I beat the heck out of mine at the vonats this year. quite durable, much better than the original shells I've used.

mrlexan wrote:The pricey side...... I don't think they are pricey, not for what you get. Quality, no shatter concerns like TBG, window masks, and overspray film, and all three pieces: wing, gear cover, and body.

Bodies are just pricey in general at least for me. I have several cars that need bodies but i keep putting it off because of the cost. Maybe I'm just whining or maybe I'm just too poor for this hobby.

aconsola wrote:

mrlexan wrote: no shatter concerns like TBG,

Can't say about the TBG version, but the Mrlexan body is tough. I beat the heck out of mine at the vonats this year. quite durable, much better than the original shells I've used.

One of the boys down under, I think it was James , had a TBG X2 body shatter upon first impact. Jason/Bormac witnessed it.