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no link posted, I understand it dosent work out as they stated. This what I used to do 15+ years ago and you know how tunning a car can be sometime what you are doing makes perfect sense at the time, but my not be right. I do apperciate the info, if you post the link I would like to veiw it and set my self straight.

The comment about negitive post was not only about this thread.

Oops, yeah a link would help: http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwizards/blending/fluid2.html?SMSESSION=NO

Yeah we used to do the mixing thing all the time before companies came out with half weights. It may not have been right or correct but it worked and it was the only solution at the time.

As for the handling issue, the truck is probably going to require an all around softer setup. Start by moving the lower rear shock to the furthest hole out. I would guess a good starting point is

Front #2 pistons, 30 or 35 wt oil silver or blue springs.
inside on tower, outside on arms

Rear #1 pistons 30wt oil green springs
outside on tower, outer hole on arm

-1 degree camber front and rear and 0 degrees toe on the front

Nice S&K airflow body, does it have the little lexan tunnel that goes inside of it to move air over the motor?

GEEZ, you guys are splitting hairs here no? Going by that GE link, it works out to about 34.xx wt with a 50% 30 and 40 wt blend.....pretty close to 35 wt......

Yeah, splitting hairs is right.... 50/50 of 30wt and 40wt comes in at 34.6wt on the posted calculator. Close enough for my workbench when 35wt isn't available

greazy wrote:Well I am not sure what it works out to but it worked for me.

I having been holding back for a a week or so but it is time to ask. Why do you always post a negitive comment ?

It "can" work for you, we used to do plenty of it back in the day.
I was just politely pointing out that your premise was wrong on 1/2 & 1/2 oil mixing.

It's like the people posting about "I ran this weight in the front and that weight in the rear," totally forgetting that they ran different brands (which weigh out differently = Losi and AE are not the same). Or people that say, "I had that car and here's what to run" neglecting to take into consideration that set-ups that work for one guy don't work for another or that most tracks take different set-ups....

Correcting is not being negative, it's being REAL!!

Weave wrote:Yeah, splitting hairs is right.... 50/50 of 30wt and 40wt comes in at 34.6wt on the posted calculator. Close enough for my workbench when 35wt isn't available

Looks close enough to me also.

greazy wrote:

Weave wrote:Yeah, splitting hairs is right.... 50/50 of 30wt and 40wt comes in at 34.6wt on the posted calculator. Close enough for my workbench when 35wt isn't available

Looks close enough to me also.

I guess the deal is relative to being accurate and that while a 50/50 mix of 30 & 40 wts. might be close enough for some, you're only able to get away with it because the weights ar so close - BUT the POINT I was trying to make was that if you use that same calculator attempting to make 45wt oil out of 30 and 60wts that the mixture needs to be 42% and 58%......... now try pulling that off.

I guess the deal is relative to being accurate and that while a 50/50 mix of 30 & 40 wts. might be close enough for some, you're only able to get away with it because the weights ar so close - BUT the POINT I was trying to make was that if you use that same calculator attempting to make 45wt oil out of 30 and 60wts that the mixture needs to be 42% and 58%......... now try pulling that off.

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Not to keep this going and beat dead horse, nobody ever refered to making 45wt. If I was wanting to do 45wt I would try 40wt and 50wt, I didnt run it on the clalulator but it should work out real close as the other did.

47% / 53% mix

scr8p wrote:just as a heads up, the front tower is actually a "worlds", not a truck. might be able to get a couple bucks for it if you have a truck one laying around you could use.

dont sell it, now all you need are your whity white arms...bang... worlds front end

Are you going to run it?
Be careful with that lite sink, you'll probably snap the rear of the chassis off without the motor guard connected to the motor plate. Awesome truck, hope to get a beaten up one to race someday.

Bugle wrote:Are you going to run it?
Be careful with that lite sink, you'll probably snap the rear of the chassis off without the motor guard connected to the motor plate. Awesome truck, hope to get a beaten up one to race someday.

Running buggy? Yeah, it could be a problem.
But running a truck, with the body protecting the rear end, I don't remember having issues.

The body doesn't help that much, if you land on an angle around 45 degrees the motor guard will take the impact. Body might save it if it lands vertically.

I didn't think that would happen with the rear bulkhead and the trans tied together. But I'll but the Litesink on my team car and put that one on the 10t. I rather not take the chance of braking it.

Is it suppose to be black or gold trans mount? I don't know. Thanks for the heads up.