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Top secret .....Local plastic place...i get drop from them from time to time...Last time i got a sheet foot by 3 foot for like 20 bucks...They have had less and less waste cuz they upgraded their machines....I would really like some black or carbon fiber but g10 is all they have...

Here's the place I ordered my G-10, they carry carbon fiber sheets, etc.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbon-fiber/=a3ouin

u can dye fiberglass the same way you dye nylon parts. i have dyed fiberglass blue and black successfully. you just have to leave it in boiling water a LONG time.

pretty cool stuff i have been trying my hand at a alloy chassis and g10 would be good to do first

Paul

these guys also:

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/G10_FR4_Glass_Epoxy_Sheet

thanks those are some great links for products...

I'm not into trucks, so I don't come into this section often. Sorry to say. BUT, I'm glad I happened across your thread. THose self made tub stiffeners are ....well... awesome. I'm going to have to try and fabricate a set myself. I had always thought you could cut a tub down a little and not sacrifice rigidity, but after cutting my tub recently I can tell a difference. Now I have a solution!!

I want to dye some of the fiberglass black..i can not get the glass to take rit dye...even at super strength boil all day soak all night..sand a little..what wrks...Iv bought used rigs that had jet black dyed stock fiberglass...i can't do it...what the hell is wrong with me..is there a brand out there that works, or another chemical or stain...

it's not you. some fiberglass composites can take a dye, and some can't. it depends on the type of resin used and what kind of dye as well.

I have some that 'looks' like the original fiberglass on the rc10, but it will not dye, where I've done the original rc10 stuff and it dyes just fine.

Like jwscab said, it's the resin; some have a very low surface energy and/or small pore structure and don't like dyes. You can try softening the resin surface by soaking the part in something acidic (like vinegar) or in a solvent, such as acetone prior to dunking in the hot dye. That may let the dye penetrate. Long term exposure to the solvent may weaken the part, so a couple of minutes would be the longest I would use. You could also get away from water based dyes and try an oil based one, like black wood stain; it may work.

Thanks for the info..I put two more pack of dye in the water...and Im happier..Not black but very close...iv got some scrap pieces of g10 so i wll try some of the softening with diff stuff to see how that works..Great ideas...Thanks...

Did a full rebuild forr the J concept race in tacoma, the truck was a blast to race. The track had mass traction. The biggest issure was steering. the truck would not hold tight in corners. It would wobble Due too the steering not being able to hold and flexing. i lost mass performance from this. An aluminum steering would have given this truck much better tight hold in the corners.,

Tacoma rc raceway always has a ton of traction!

Hartson said the same thing when i asked him about his Mod truck set up.. He was great at helping to fine tune the LRP ---

I ran worlds bellcranks, in the front holes with screws holding the nose in normal position to combat this- arm flex can be an issue with the 10t on high bite as well-