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Sweet welding. now all you need is a Limo body

if they used 4043, it's not going to anodize well. if they used 5xxx series welding filler, it should anodize OK.

one other thing, is that the chassis has probably lost some of it's temper now that it's been heated. You may want to add some stiffener bars that run the length of the chassis, from nose plate to bulkhead, maybe aluminum or carbon fiber tube or something similar.

also, make sure you bevel the ends of the welds on the side rails so there are no sharp edges, they will cause a stress point and start to fracture the joint there.

jwscab wrote:one other thing, is that the chassis has probably lost some of it's temper now that it's been heated. You may want to add some stiffener bars that run the length of the chassis, from nose plate to bulkhead, maybe aluminum or carbon fiber tube or something similar.

also, make sure you bevel the ends of the welds on the side rails so there are no sharp edges, they will cause a stress point and start to fracture the joint there.

Good idea, but as I suggested earlier it might be easier achieved by placing a CF plate in the bottom of the tub.

That looks amazing,

You have got to make that thing look as factory as possible, just to freak a few people out.

It would be funny to pass it off (on the "experts") as a rare prototype.

I could see it work with a late 80's style stadium truck paint job. I hope you will try to duplicate the factory gold pan.

I can't wait to see it finished.

You definately look like you know what your doing, let the experts make their own...

I can only dream of laying down a bead like that.

The real trick to this build will be the chassis. Havn look as factory like as i can. Not a hacked jb weld project with some duct tape and super glue cardboard finish. i would really like to get a good gold finish on it 1st things 1st grinding down and smoothing

Have you considered going black on the chassis? Being that all the trucks were that way... Just a thought. Nice skillz!

like i mentioned above, anodizing is going to depend on what alloy he used for filler. If it was 4043, then black is the best you can do, which just so happens to be the 'right' truck color.....4043 anodizes black. If it was 5356 filler, i think that can be anodized any color, though I don't tknow if it will shade differently.

file down the welds, then use a piece of scotchbrite to put the brushed finish back on the chassis, then scrub it down really well with a good cleaner before anodizing, brake cleaner or acetone, etc.

or, get it smoothed, and powdercoat it black. I think that is route I would go.

Ya iv thought alot about chassis color. I want to go old gold for that vintage first run look but im pretty sure black will be in the making. Try to use as much white parts as i can. Iv got the full running gear and suspension body and plans for the race color scheme. using a MIP geard diff box would be cool to give it that New Stadium truck equipment parts list but il have to find one then theres the thought of racing it and messn up any MIP parts. RPM gear box is on the list of to get parts

Grinding and smoothing . She really looks ugly now this is when u think man was this a good idea . little filling and more smoothing[/img][/img]

Man, that first photo just looks like a factory chassis, that has been grinded on one too many curves, you can't really tell that it was two separate chassis.

Awesome Job...

That is looking good

Shoulda used easy off oven cleaner on it first then weld ,then grind an sand.Lot less to sand off then,But helluva job on welding wish i could do that.Don

Keeping on gold before smoothing out helped to find low-high spots. its has to all get blasted off any how before new coating. i will eventually blast the whole thing to same texture.

powdercoat? or new anodizing??

Probably powder closest anodizing il have to send the chassis out of state i think. local powder coating place says he has a transparent type gold. black no problem. I want to see what the gold looks like it might be cool looking