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OUTLAWD wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2017 6:11 pm Nice progress. I stared at the shock O-rings for quite a while and still got it wrong, luckily I caught my mix-up before the oil went in.

I built mine with the included spacers, and my travel matches Kinwald's setup within 0.5mm, and the bones should stay put, so I'll let it be for now. I picked up extra o-rings to be safe with my last Tower order. Alot of guys use silicone fuel line for spacers, but any nylon washer of a close size should work.

A note on the antenna-less Rx, Futaba indicated they were only good for ~230' IIRC. Just in case you didn't see that

OUTLAWD wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:24 pm Alot of people remove them and connect the wires permanently. Or you could servo tape it to the side of the tub. You're right, there is not really a convenient spot for it

joey_zrl wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:42 pm Looking good on your build Jack! For the on/off switch, I moved mine to the left side of the battery cup using double-sided tape, making sure that 'on' is facing towards the front. If your car for instance, hit an obstacle head on in a race, it wouldn't accidentally flip the switch to off.

howaboutme wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:47 am

Looks great. I see what you did. So you moved the battery compartment back for shorties and distributed all of the weights more evenly and added extra on the sides? Very clean.

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:56 pm that iron looks pretty nice and it's a good price for an adjustable iron that will suit all of your needs.

you should use lead solder if possible, and yes, rosin core. 60/40 63/37 whatever is fine. lead flows much nicer than lead free. you shouldn't need flux unless you really want to use it. the rosin in the solder is the flux, but if you have some nasty connections, applying flux will burn off impurities. think of it as an oxygen shield, it burns off oxygen and impurities so the connection is good.

the chisel tip will work better for thicker wire, motor leads, etc. anything that's like 16 AWG or larger.

really, all you need to do is tin the two parts you want to solder together, so take the wire, strip it back what you need, apply some solder to the iron and it will pool in a particular spot, place the wire in the pool of solder and touch the wire with the solder strand off the spool until it starts to melt into the wire, flow a little until the wire is flooded. at that point stop.

move to the next part, say a solder cup or tab on a motor. same principle, you can wipe off or flick off excess solder on the iron, and a small dab to apply solder and flux, and touch the pool to the solder cup or tab, and then touch with the solder off the roll, when it flows, apply some to tin the entire area you need.

then get your two parts in alignment where you want them, hold together with clips, fingers, etc, leave the solder strand 'floating' in air off the spool, touch it with the iron, and then immediately bring the iron to the work and when they flow together, remove the iron to let it cool.

just remember to keep your iron at about 720-750F, apply heat and then remove, don't waste time. short hot is what you are looking for. and it will heat up the wires and tabs, so be careful!

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:59 am you should be just fine with that stuff. that looks like a nice iron.