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I don't remember that far back accurately as I was a kid and a long time ago but I think they were more of a cream color. I know that even NIP parts age over time, but some really good condition ones I have are a creamish color. I think if they get too white they look like the cheap white plastic on some cars rather than the nylon. I used the whitening process on just some select parts to get the bad brown/yellowing out. I also sort my parts according to shade so some do not get over done.

I see where you guys are coming from of "too white", and am in noway arguing the fact...... The one picture I have there, I do believe honestly the flash kinda intensified the white, more then it looks in person. And in my resto thread I stated that some parts were not as bright white as others.

Being the a-arms, trans case, which came out pretty much identical in shade of white, they actually have a almost cream color or duller white, then say the battery tray, shock spring collars, wheels.

While these are maybe not identical "box build" color, I have seen a few pics here and there of mint new assembled RC10T's where you can (IMO) clearly see the different "brightness" of white parts comparing the a-arms, trans, to the batt tray, collars, wheels, etc.

But either way, the peroxide trick is great at "restoring" the color or maybe even over doing it at times.

I agree. I have taken pictures before and the flash does an amazing job of whitening(beware of ebay pictures). I found that also that the trays and some other pieces get whiter faster. That is why I now seperate some of them. I figure that they will start to discolor over time again anyway so if you parts are too white give them a few years.

CamplinP wrote:I figure that they will start to discolor over time again anyway so if you parts are too white give them a few years.

Yes very true!

Well I just put two front three piece RC10 rims in a pickle jar filled half way with straight 3% hydrogen peroxide.
I also put a drinking glass over the parts to keep them from floating. Its completely overcast today so we'll see what happens.

I brought the jar in a little while ago after being outside for 8 hours and theres very little change. I'll have to try again under better weather conditions. Its still way too early here to be trying this sort of thing. At least it will give me time to get the other ingredients listed in those articles.

HI!... I've tried both ways. IMO the U/V light method works 10 times better. Plus you can run it 24 hours.

I bet you have... Anyway, the sun is free, plus this isn't something I plan on doing regularly enough to warrant buying much more than a 99¢ bottle of hydrogen peroxide.

HI!... No problem. Just trying to help you out.

Has anyone already tried this method with RPM parts? I soaked an upgrade steering kit for 2 days in peroxyde and they are now more yellow than before... Can anyone confirm?

it's confirmed a couple times in this thread to not use this process on white rpm parts.

just let them sit somewhere and air out. i did a used white rpm bumper and it turned the color of pickle juice. but eventually, the color went away. it took a few weeks, almost a month if i remember correctly. but now, it's pretty white.

Dang, that's what happen when you are no more able to read every new post here. I finally found a complete slightly used set of RPM C-hubs and knuckles for my full RPM RC10 and they are now yellower than before. I'll let them breathe a bit now and see what happens. Oh well...

i don't have a before and after pic of my bumper, but there's and after shot of it on the front of this build....

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15870&start=30

I stored a set of white RPM worlds arms in a ziplock bag with other parts that went through the process and they turned green just from being closed in a bag with the treated parts. Peroxide must seep out of the soaked parts over time maybe. They did return to their original white color after about 3 weeks leaving them in the open air.

Just reading through all of this, BRILLIANT is all I can say, been looking for a answer fo ages. Im off to do do this on my yokomo works 91 bulkheads and plastic parts, can I just confirm reading through 3% peroxide crops up quite alot, so in the pics people have posted in this post were all the parts are in a jar is that 3% peroxide the rest water?

sorry if this sound silly but cant seem to find a accurate answer. also what would happen if you filled the whole jar with peroxide? ruined parts Im guessing?