RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I was doing some cleaning and measuring of parts, and just wanted to let you guys know. The Duratrax Evader rear wheels are about 2mm more narrow offset per side than the rere Worlds, TTR AT10, B2 and B3 wheels. Although many of you may know this already, I just found out! Wished I had known, as would not have purchased so many sets based on suggestions I had read! Rere Worlds, AT10, B2 and B3 are all the same offset, the only difference is the B2 is about 2.15, B3 2.19 and the TTR and Worlds are 2.2 sizes.

you have to remember, back when this thread was started, the evader wheel was really the most direct option.... if you wanted something readily accessible.

obviously, these days, there is zero reason to use them. but since you have them already, throw a spacer on the axle and use them up.

Please pardon my ignorance on this, I am new to building the RC10 but I have an old A stamp my dad ran back in the 80s that I am looking to update into a car I can run around and maybe try a track with. I read the last few pages of this but don't expressly see the answer to this. It looks like the new re-re kits give some new convenient options to run modern tires? How does this setup sound? 9588 front wheels with the 6801 front spindle kit. 6805 rear wheels with the 6802 kit and 6371 cva kit. If I build this I intend to install a Stealth. The car has longer Andy's front arms and I just found a set of Andy's rear arms to match. Will these wheels let me run any of the Proline 2.2 buggy tires? I would like to be able to have tires for the track and tires that will work on the street for fun and testing. It looks like some of the clay patterns might work ok. I had slicks for the RC10 wheels back in the day but it looks like no one makes them anymore. Should the track widths work out with this setup? Thanks!

Without looking up the part #s, seems like you are on the right track. For slicks, look at Panther, I think they have buggy size 2.2 slicks for front/rear. And yes, for the AE conversion wheels, 2.2 buggy tires fit (modern tires).

Good luck and post up some pictures/build info in the RC10 section.

Man this is co confusing! lol. So many different combo's.

So let's say I have a stock everything vintage RC10...

Using the first post but avoiding the brittle rims - Below are "new" more durable B3 wheels right? I simply need to change out the front bearings and go with a 3/16" rear axle (and bearings) and I'll be good to go yes???

These:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunder-Tiger-Phoenix-BX-RC10-B3-MTD-Rear-Buggy-Tires-/371201878742?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item566d5b2ad6

and These:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunder-Tiger-Phoenix-BX-RC10-B3-MTDFront-Buggy-Tires-/351248938373?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c8117585

should be. you can either update just rear bearing and axles, or change the rear hubs also. The 3/8" x 3/16" bearings on the truck style hub are non flanged, while the 3/8" x 1/4" bearings in the old rear hubs are flanged, so you would need a 'non stock' 3/8" x 3/16" flanged bearing.

the thunder tiger front wheels are actually b4 wheels (as far as i know). so you will need the longer front axles to fix the offset.

scr8p wrote:the thunder tiger front wheels are actually b4 wheels (as far as i know). so you will need the longer front axles to fix the offset.

Hmmm stock axles get pressed in with a C clip on the inside...I saw your thread here:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483&start=60

How did you fit the wide axles into the stock stuff?

you would have to get the 6221 steering arms.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2524&P=FR&gclid=CIy0l6edwcICFRNp7AodSD8ABg

scr8p wrote:you would have to get the 6221 steering arms.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2524&P=FR&gclid=CIy0l6edwcICFRNp7AodSD8ABg

Awesome thanks! Trying to get all the pieces together in my head for a new/old pick and part build! Too many things I want to do - gotta start to focus! lol. It's gonna be cool though...

Hi Guys,

This is my first post. I'm quite new to RC10's and anything AE, so please forgive my ignorance.

I have a Team car that I am trying to convert to modern wheels. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. The CVA bone appears to be 10mm too long for the arm, which you can see in the attached image.

The parts in the picture include :

B Stamp Chassis
Kit 6360 arm mounts
Kit arms
9756 B44 Rear CVA kit
7364 RC10WC Rear hubs
7377 Axle spacers
3/16x3/8 plain bearings

The length of the bone is 62mm which appears to be correct. The only difference I can spot is the 9755 axle images online show a bowl shaped cup where the ones I have are conical.

I'm sure I am doing something silly, so if someone could give me a nudge in the right direction, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Cheers,
Scott.

You need longer arms to use the b44 cva's. RPM worlds or Dynotech Klein arms.

You need this CVA for standard arms : http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6371/

Thanks the replies Boy am I confused now.

I purchased the B44 kit as the Worlds manual lists 9760+9755 which are both B44 parts. Is the manual incorrect or am still missing something glaringly obvious?

AE 9760 is the bone from the center diff to the rear diff, not from diff to wheels, it is shorter than the B44 rear diff to wheels bones (that you purchased).