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You tell people it's not easy but unless you actually know what your talking about and you have an original in your hands then you just can't see it , the whole thing is just wrong for FDM .

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 6:03 pm You tell people it's not easy but unless you actually know what your talking about and you have an original in your hands then you just can't see it , the whole thing is just wrong for FDM .

Actually, you are right: you need to have a chassis in hand to understand what it is about... I stopped considering FDM as a solution the day I started to try complex parts with multiple support... However, FDM is still perfect to validate something, before relying on online printing services...

This is where I am with the FDM Samurai chassis , in Cura with 1.2 mm thick walls at 0.2mm layer height that looks horrible because of the gentle angles its about 10 hours print time for the main part of half the chassis , at 0.1 mm layer height with 1.2mm wall thickness its about 20 hours . Hopefully that makes some sense of it , still needs preferably tree support of support everywhere .

Even with tree support, one must fully master the printing process... Not yet there, on my side, and I believe the bowden extruder does not help at all. That being said, looking at your pics, if he chassis is printed in multiple parts to be glued or fixed using screws later on, would that reduce the complexity of the print? (maybe quite difficult to hide the hardware used to fix the part together, but maybe possible (recently saw this https://www.printednest.com/caramel-crc and found some interesting ideas)...

I've already made screw fixing points in the model and none are externally visible , the model you linked is beyond me as of yet and for some time to come but looks very nice .

Not RC but just some fun , this will be a life size print of a scan of my daughters head , 24.5 hours in and only 68% done ! I hate prints that take this long as if something goes wrong at a late stage its a waist of time and plastic , most RC parts are only a matter of a few hours to print so if one goes wrong its no big deal to start over but this is going to be roughly 40 hours and even then ive still got to do another part for the top of her head , she wanted it to be a jar with a removable lid and give it to her boyfriend as a gift .Hard to see what it is yet with the support material in the way .

My daughter and her replacement .

Run girl run! He"s trying to make an android clone of you! Save yourself!

Forgot to post the finished head .

Just for a giggle I printed another Marui Samurai in one piece from the assembled CAD file . Ultimately it failed as two wheels came out flat on the bottom. Before you judge too harshly look at it next to my white Samurai runner

Very good idea . You just gave me another idea for the Nichimo

Found another free 3d scanning programme to use with the Xbox Kinect scanner , this one is way better ,it's has no limit to the polygons so you get way better detail . This print was then smoothed by painting on 3d printer resin and curing with a UV lamp then sanding to remove all layer lines , after sanding it's the been painted . Quite pleased really , the old one is just no comparison .

Looks great Dadio!

What scanning software are you using? I am picking up a used Kinect today and am looking at Skanect as an app.

I have been experimenting with photogrammetry lately, but it isn't working for me for the fine details.

I tried photogrammetry but never got the results seen on YouTube , the first head print was done with Skanect free version , it limits the number of polygons in the model so when you print large scale it's very low poly looking , if you pay for it it's better .
The second head was done with Reconstructme , it's a simpler process to use than Skanect and is not hobbled in the free version either .