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So you have to countersink the chassis holes yourself? That is near impossible to get perfect using a hand held drill in alloy. Maybe fine if you own a CNC machine with a correct bit. Then you have to re-anodise it to match properly. Pretty poor show. Anyone checked the new black chassis yet?

my chassis had all its countersinks.

Should save that factory error chassis.... it might be worth money someday

Chris

Counter sink with a pilot would work well. But ya should not have something like this go out on a realease. It's not like this is a young company. Have yet to get mine. Still curios to get mine. At the very least will be able to say " They don't make em like they use to"

kink wrote:So you have to countersink the chassis holes yourself? That is near impossible to get perfect using a hand held drill in alloy. Maybe fine if you own a CNC machine with a correct bit. Then you have to re-anodise it to match properly. Pretty poor show. Anyone checked the new black chassis yet?

Now I want a "non counter sunk" classis chassis

I guess the worst part is that the chassis is one of the few American-made parts, right?

You can also see the four greenish-colored screws that were in the rear arm bag.

That's pretty poor QC but it happens. Likely made on a Friday afternoon or Monday morning.

Can't see AE not offering you a replacement chassis if you contact them.

trkneller wrote:I guess the worst part is that the chassis is one of the few American-made parts, right?

You can also see the four greenish-colored screws that were in the rear arm bag.

Sorry to hear this, I believe this is a typical Chinese QC, I don't thing that some parts are made from US then shipped to China. If these were made from US? that QC should be fired by now. seems like yours were made on a Friday afternoon and is payday.

that's just my guess, but hey we can never know where it is actually made.

Goodluckguys... and me.

Makes you think it's a low production chassis, remember in the old video....all the holes being drilled and countersunk in one motion with one machine that had multiple heads. These may be hand done

I was not going to open my "classic" but now have a powerful craving to have a peek at the chassis, Either I'll wait for more results, or have a couple of beers first, before I open it.

marlo wrote:I was not going to open my "classic" but now have a powerful craving to have a peek at the chassis, Either I'll wait for more results, or have a couple of beers first, before I open it.

open it. open it right freaking now.

badhoopty wrote:

marlo wrote:I was not going to open my "classic" but now have a powerful craving to have a peek at the chassis, Either I'll wait for more results, or have a couple of beers first, before I open it.

open it. open it right freaking now.

+1, open it, open it quickly and right now. Dont use a knife, just chew straight into the box!!

I cut my tower box open, and in one swift motion slit all 3 seals. My box was open before the packing slip hit the floor.

Steam open the seal

JK Racing wrote:

badhoopty wrote:

marlo wrote:I was not going to open my "classic" but now have a powerful craving to have a peek at the chassis, Either I'll wait for more results, or have a couple of beers first, before I open it.

open it. open it right freaking now.

+1, open it, open it quickly and right now. Dont use a knife, just chew straight into the box!!

I cut my tower box open, and in one swift motion slit all 3 seals. My box was open before the packing slip hit the floor.

The choice of words made my day, Alright.....I do need to know, I'll open it up today, but first I'll play around here for a while, have a beer, then go in and open it up, but I will not be using the 3 seal action

hum i had a issue with no holes being drilled in the nose plate for the servo, anybody else have this issue? here is a pic of the car done. i used a body i painted and stickered a long time ago just added a couple more from the rere sheet to complete. also added edinger frt/rear tires, rear wing nuts, edinger dual servo savers and front sway bar. will add the rear shock cups when seabass makes up some more.