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sounds good. offer is always there. We have mostly Pace soldering tools but we have a Hakko 805 for heavy duty stuff. The 888 should have enough power for those w/ the correct tip and flux. And definitely flood some new solder on there, and I'm sure you know but not some lead free BS w/ higher melting temp and inferior core.. old school SnPb.

Anyone else having trouble seeing the images? Not coming through. Very interested in seeing the wheel tire combo you developed.

Thanks, limestang

limestang wrote: ↑Mon Jul 22, 2024 4:00 pm Anyone else having trouble seeing the images? Not coming through. Very interested in seeing the wheel tire combo you developed.

Thanks, limestang

They are hosted by imgur, not directly to the site.

azone wrote: ↑Mon Jul 22, 2024 3:51 pm sounds good. offer is always there. We have mostly Pace soldering tools but we have a Hakko 805 for heavy duty stuff. The 888 should have enough power for those w/ the correct tip and flux. And definitely flood some new solder on there, and I'm sure you know but not some lead free BS w/ higher melting temp and inferior core.. old school SnPb.

I have the Kester 60% rosin core solder, might be 63/37, but full strength, built a bunch of guitar tube amps, and recapped a stack of old Marantz stereos, Kester works really well. Thanks again!

limestang wrote: ↑Mon Jul 22, 2024 4:00 pm Anyone else having trouble seeing the images? Not coming through. Very interested in seeing the wheel tire combo you developed.

Thanks, limestang

Sorry to hear you can't see the pics, @juicedcoupe is correct, these are full resolution 5Mb+ pics hosted at imgur. What browser are you using to view the site with? If you go to imgur.com, does their site work for you?

The wheel dimensions were borrowed from @MarkyDents Advanced Eng. original wheels, which Dhawk then made with 5 jelly bean cutouts instead of the three MarkyDents had. I used the Pro-line Jaco donuts, 2202 in the rear, and 2225 in the front.

More here on how the wheels and donuts came together (many pics in there and some video too if you can't see pics): https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49483

I use a large (like 1/4") chisel tip for batteries.

With that braid on the batteries, you might have to flood some more solder into it for better heat transfer.

Movie car for reference.





Was able to get the old solder and braid off of the Sanyo batteries. The Hakko 888 just needed to be turned up to max temp., 899°F.




43mm Shrink wrap.


3/4" strapping tape to hold it together.




Just got the Molex pin extractor set and some new Molex .63 and .92 pins.


Going to get all the wiring setup next. Going to try Rit Graphite Black dye for that motor plug.

Reference pic: motor has negative - on the left side, positive + on the right.


Had a 50-50 chance, and my motor is upside down to the movie car motor, positive on the left and negative on the right; the caps are soldered to the can on the wrong side, not an easy fix.


Going to desolder everything, and then paint the motor black again in that bare spot.


The Rit dye worked on the connector.


Seems like a waste to have to redo that motor, but it would bother me if I left it that way. I'm in no rush.

Delete

Battery pack and all wiring completed.


Futaba MC-111B ESC.


The yellow battery pack is for display purposes, going to run this with a NiMh pack.


That pretty much does it for the chassis. Time to get the body going now.

Looking great!
- limestang

limestang wrote: ↑Sat Jul 27, 2024 8:58 pm Looking great!
- limestang

Your TDP vette is incredible, and your 85 JJH car is outstanding, everything about the chassis being correct makes it hard for me to get anywhere near that close. I learned a lot from your threads, thanks!

I've been trying to acquire the necessary skills to make TDP body turn out the best I can possibly make it, I had to practice first, and then decide which way to try to do this.

The body I'm using is the Bolink BL2254 63 Coupe body.

The actual body used for TDP vette in the movie, was the Parma 63 Corvette #10218, and good luck finding one of those. If some day I can find a #10218, or they repro them, I'll make the body exactly like the movie. But in my case, I'm going to have to improvise on a theme.

Body on the right is painted with Tamiya X-11 silver/chrome brush paint.




But what I want to do, to make it look as real or scale as possible, is to mask off everything and spray it with Alclad II chrome.


Alclad II, when backed in black, looks like nickel or stainless in some lights.




This is going to take a while.

The PS-5 made it here today.


Going to try to get the rest of this masked off for Alclad II chrome tonight, and then back it in PS-5 tomorrow.




Window trim will be chrome.




Can sit for maybe 40 minutes at a time doing this, and then have to walk away for a bit.

Felt like this would never be done, and there's still all those tape lines that can bleed and require clean up.




Going to go over the tape lines again, make sure they are clean from the outside, and sealed off inside, then spray the Alclad II chrome, then the PS-5 backing to seal it in. Just going to paint the chrome and the black backing sections, will complete the wheel wells and paint everything else, later.

About to find out if that rats nest of masking tape was worth it .

Used Tamiya 3mm Curve tape, the white vinyl looking type, on all of the edges to prevent bleed, and then used regular Tamiya masking, and mostly inexpensive local hardware store masking tape, on top of the good white tape. This offers limited bleed as a result, and some decent sharp lines.


Looks dull with the overspray film still on, like the Tamiya X-11 does.






Had a peek under the overspray film, much shinier than X-11.


Need to get those wheel wells cut and then spray this all in PS-5. The wells have been giving me the most concern out of everything, jagged, or uneven wells that don't match on both sides, makes me tread lightly. Going to measure three times, and cut once.