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limestang wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2024 4:18 pm Has anyone ever figured out what’s hand written on the masking tape placed on the transmission brace. This has bothered me for years. Here’s what I see:
CAR 2 of 4
14-54 - Most likely Gear ratio
F7YD — Very hard to read
FR 27Hz - Radio Frequency

Anyone have a better photo or better guess? Think about what info you would need to ID the vehicle (Crystal Frequency, Motor turns, Motor, ???)

Thanks limestang

I had been looking that over, but hadn't got that far yet. Those are the best pics I could find.

I'm not replicating that exact 1LKI623 #2 movie car, because that actual car was stolen; don't want any of that stink on my build.



Getting to the last details inside of the body, before the PS-5 Black goes on.

Gas cap with silver Sharpie, brake lights with Tamiya red brush paint, which will be circled with silver Sharpie outside the body, when painted and the overspray film is removed.


Front windshield hood vents in silver Sharpie.


Side vent windows in silver Sharpie on the inside.




Will check it again tomorrow, and see if the weather is right for PS-5.

Humidity was in the mid 60's yesterday, put the PS-5 on. Need to PS-31 Smoke the windows still, then peel the overspray film.






Ugly day out there today, 77% humidity at 52°F, at 1pm, maybe tomorrow will be a better day to finish the paint.

Got the windows tinted, and the aluminum drawn on.










Next up is the foil bumpers. That may take a bit to get right.
In hindsight: I should not have painted the bumpers inside the shell, if foiling them.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 28, 2024 7:22 pm Got the windows tinted, and the aluminum drawn on. In hindsight: I should not have painted the bumpers inside the shell, if foiling them.

Can always go back with some Tamiya Body Cleaner on a Q-tip to strip and refinish the silver bits you'd prefer to be black. Since they're on the bottom of the body a rag could be used to protect the inside of the windows when respraying, instead of masking tape.

BTW, did you see the DeadPool 'Vette that was on eBay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335737993939

...pretty cool car. Though, yours is better

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Sat Dec 28, 2024 9:15 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 28, 2024 7:22 pm Got the windows tinted, and the aluminum drawn on. In hindsight: I should not have painted the bumpers inside the shell, if foiling them.

Can always go back with some Tamiya Body Cleaner on a Q-tip to strip and refinish the silver bits you'd prefer to be black. Since they're on the bottom of the body a rag could be used to protect the inside of the windows when respraying, instead of masking tape.

BTW, did you see the DeadPool 'Vette that was on eBay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335737993939

...pretty cool car. Though, yours is better

That Tamiya Polycarbonate cleaner can eat through PS paint so fast, especially in the areas you don't want it to, it flows. I'll have to leave it, and foil over it; they would be negligible gains for redoing it at this point, more risk of ruining something good, like always with my past track record.

Thanks for the encouragement on this! Can't believe someone paid $749 for that TDP on ebay

I do have an extra, correct body, and set of wheels. Doubt anyone would be willing to pay the entire cost for a 100% correct movie car though, it's a lot of time and effort.

Will get started on the foil bumpers tomorrow.

The foil takes some getting used to, and familiar with. Using gloves makes this much easier, it doesn't stick to your hands and makes it smudge free.

Only the front passenger side bumper was applied so far, that's all one piece.


The left side reflects, the right side is dull.




Will keep at this, as this was how the movie car was done.

Found the RCCA article on The Dead Pool RC10, had not seen this before.


Direct link for a Zoom-in read:
https://i.imgur.com/SEr6eIW.jpg

Looks good.
I'm amazed you were able to foil the bumper in one piece. Nice!

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 19, 2025 2:18 pm Looks good.
I'm amazed you were able to foil the bumper in one piece. Nice!

Nitrile gloves were the key to getting the foil on there, for me, though it took a of couple swings before any contact was made . Also used a new #11 x-acto blade to barely score and then tear the excess off at the line. Was lucky you guys gave me good tips before I got started, came in handy.

I plan to get back to this soon, next week for certain. The retro computer repair hobby has been taking up a lot of time recently.

There is one last step to complete that I'm having a hard time with, and it seems like it should be really easy. It's the round yellow signal lights under the front bumpers:


I've looked at those up close, and they appear to be round yellow vinyl stickers.

It's extremely convenient that the window masks that came with the Parma #10218 body, are yellow, and an exact match.


I have an Olfa compass circle cutter, but it doesn't go small enough, and it puts a hole in the center.

Can anyone recommend a way to make a perfect tiny circle? Tried painting the outside too, it looks bad, needs to be yellow vinyl.

Punching it would work best, will figure that out.

Measured the spots on the body, between 7mm and 8mm is what's necessary, punched with a hammer, one of these spacers might work with the correct ID.

This cuts 0.3" perfect circles, which is just under 8mm.
https://www.amazon.com/ECOHU-Craft-Punch-1-inch-Punchers/dp/B09924BZYS?th=1


Easy as it gets, but at a price.

The last detail to this project is the detonator. It's such a difficult reproduction, that it might not ever happen.


The aluminum enclosure, and that momentary push button switch with the bezel, are impossible to find out what those were, or what they came from.

As is, I could 3D print the box, prep it to appear like aluminum with enough effort, but without the main black button and specifically that bezel, it would never be close enough.

The 0.3"/>8mm hole punch will be here shortly for the front turn signals, should have completed pics of this project, minus the detonator, in a couple of hours.