RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Not yet, my machinist will give me a raw estimate now and I will let you all know as soon as I have the info.

Hey Ruffy I was going to ask (not sure if it was mentioned). Are these to work with the original Universal / CVDs and Wheels?
I am not sue if anyone is interest or is planning on really running the arms but how about making them a bit wider to use B44 CVAs and B4 wheels?

He used my car and parts to do the CAD drawings. The dimensions are based on the original Houge arms.

I plan to run them! The Thunder Tiger wheels fit with the original universals. You just need to take a body reamer to the back of the wheel to put a taper in it.

Got it. I am not worried, I was only thinking ti woudl be cool.
you can also use B2/3 CVDs and 3/16x3/8 flanged BB then you don't have to taper the wheels.

I always wondered why, and I think this is the perfect place to ask it, why are the trailing arm mounts at an angle, meaning as the arm cycles it doesn't travel in a straight line fore and aft, its more of an arc which changes camber as it cycles? This always bothered be ever since I saw the first set 1000 years ago! Don't get me wrong, I love trailing arm cars! I've shower pics of my thrown together car.

New Ruf-Trailing Arm:

OK here is the final design with improvements. With these arms you will no longer need to add that thick Associated washer to the underside to correct for the excessive camber the original arms had.
I have redesigned the trailing arms to my own design liking, 1st for functionality and strength, and 2nd for ease in mfg so-as to bring the final price down for those that want them. These parts can be used on either side, if you just flip the entire assy over. Once yiou have a set of these, you might never where these out needing more, unless your car gets run over by a car, and maybe not even then.
I hope you guys like them, as pricing will be coming soon enough now.
I spoke with my machinist today, and will have him build one complete set that I will pay for out of my pocket, then based upon his learning curve to gain maximum efficiency in making these, he has agreed to do it this way in order to give us the best price (possibly much lower than the initial ones) that he can without feeling that he is doing it for nothing.

I'm in for 1 set, regardless of price. 2 sets if they are under $100 and 3 (at least) if we do the chassis!

Ya, Id be in for atleast one set!

Anyone have a good answer to my post a couple up about the angled mount? Just something I always wondered about.

JHarris wrote:I'm in for 1 set, regardless of price. 2 sets if they are under $100 and 3 (at least) if we do the chassis!

You will be doing a chassis if I have anything to do with it

fastang, not sure. I wasn't Houge's designer for his line of parts, but working for Composite Craft as both their Design Engineer and CNC programmer I ould only take a wild guess, but I'd rather not. Better that someone from that company's design dept answer that one.
My arm mounts are not angled, which eliminates having to add that (at times) tedious thick washer under one side of the mounts to correct for the angle.

The good thing about the flat mount is that you could still shim the outer mounting point IF you wanted more negative camber.

Here's another vote to 'Puhleeeeeze' do the chassis to complete a sort of Re-re trailing arm RC10...

Bringing the old school back to racing , I love it this is awesome Ruffy. I may have to sell some of my stuff but I will get a set for sure.
Hey Ruffy where did you get the chassis mount location from? Will they work on the same location the A&L did?

Not sure but if someone wants to send me an A&L chassis to take measurements, and then I can send it back, I can then confirm or make mounts to work with that chassis as well if there is enough interest.
Just PM me regarding this.

For those who are interested in these arms:

These will not be an exact duplicate! Let's be sure to make that perfectly clear. This is a tweaked design and not intended to be a repro part for a restoration. Now, with that out of the way- what do the masses want for color? Would you guys prefer natural aluminum, polished aluminum, chrome, black anodize, hard black anodize, blue anodize, red anodize, gold anodize and so on. I will be gathering information for coloring options, but want to see if there's a preference. Not to step on Ruffy's toes here since we have only talked a little about this, but I know for sure some will be done in black and I will probably personally have a set or 2 chromed, but I can get my stuff done separately from the bulk stuff.