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The strap is not attached to the bulkhead. It simply lays across the top of the battery. The carbon is very firm so the pressure placed on the front where it is thumb screwed down keeps the rear nice and tight on top of the bulkhead. There are no other modifications to the bulkhead.

The purpose of the B44 battery posts instead of the battery cup is because of the length of the lipo. With the hard case it won't fit. There is an option though for a graphite car- since they don't use the 2 side mounting points you can trim those out and slide the battery back about another 1/8". Personally, I don't want to destroy a part that they don't make anymore. Also, I could trim the battery strap so the section doesn't extend the length of the battery but I see it as insurance an it can be used in my B4 if I lose the one that's in it.

Yes, my cars have the B4 slipper. I will try to go through the car later and list the parts. If anyone needs close up photos of anything let me know.

Hi Mate,

This is my memories of the 2003 Minnreg Worlds

You would pobably agree that the indoor air conditioned pits and awesome track surface made that place an awesome track. Sadly, a bunch of gas guys running and partying all night right next to the rv park got the off road track shut down.

Chip from GA wrote:Here's Mr Harris' SC10. She's a beauty!

The SC10 was traded to Chip for the Pro Radiant. I raced the truck twice and just didn't like the short course thing so it worked out perfectly.

I posted a pic of the body for my new RC10 but it was erased by the issues the site recently suffered. So, here's the body, and a couple pics of the car beneath.

Stunning as always Jeff.... so many neat touches

Quick question; what steering arms/levers are you using - they seem to give better clearance for the larger RPM ball cups - my runner has the standard Worlds Car arms & it looks I'll get a clash if I use the RPM items?

DerbyDan wrote:
Quick question; what steering arms/levers are you using - they seem to give better clearance for the larger RPM ball cups - my runner has the standard Worlds Car arms & it looks I'll get a clash if I use the RPM items?

I am having the same problem with my RC10 Team Car. I have the Houges steering arms and I had to trim material where the steering arms connect to clear the ballstuds on the shock tower.

yep, i have some binding issues at full suspension compression with rpm ball cups. I'm using traxxas bellcrank parts, but they are almost identical to the associated parts. I'm going to have to trim the ball cups, use stock associated ones on the inner tie rod locations, or possibly lower the bellcranks.

I'm using the Houge steering system, although I also have a car being built that uses the bellcranks made by Atlas. I am not using RPM ballcups. I use the JConcepts ballcups. The key is to use the black Associated ballstuds in areas where it's a tight fit. They are .030" shorter than normal ballstuds.

I don't really like how close things get at full steering lock and full suspension compression, but a SLIGHT rub won't hurt anything. It's not preferred, but it won't really make a difference. Once thing I considered was to move the ballstud on the shock tower out just a little bit. If I get one that just won't cooperate I may try it.

One other thing to try would be to shave a little off the front arm mounts where the shock tower mates against it. That would move the shock tower forward just enough to gain additional clearance for the ballcups.

Here's some of what's been keeping me so busy lately. The first pics are of Jason Ruona's cars. A big thanks to the members that helped me with the parts I needed. The milled chassis was the car he actually raced back in the day. The car found it's way back to him recently and I was given very specific instructions on how it was to be built. The other black car and the gold car were to be built as close to his car as possible. I didn't have any of the hard anodized RC10 shocks for the gold car, so I'm having a set hard ano'd for him. Once I get those back all three will be back in Jason's hands, just in time for our upcoming vintage shootout.

This is the all black car I posted earlier in the thread. It was built and run once, but my oldest didn't like it. (it was the test mule for a few things) After seeing the hard gray car I built he decided to swap and go with that one. So, this one was rebuilt and will be on loan for our upcoming vintage shootout. I never posted pics of the complete car. Although I am waiting for the front axles and wing mounts, it's close enough to complete to post.

And finally, here's the latest build. This one is going to Larry Genova of Kustom Rc Graphics. He saw my car and wanted an exact copy, but with black ballcups. This will be raced by his son Zack, driver for X-Factory and JConcepts. I'm looking forward to seeing what Larry whips up for paint on their new vintage ride. Hopefully I will have the rear carriers, CVD's and shocks back from anodize and chrome by the end of the week.

Those are some really nice cars you have.

Man you must have a ton of parts laying around.

Nice work.

Jake

Since I mentioned the gray car.....

I will try to take some pics of the completed car to post, but until then here's the beginning stages when I started building it.

Jeff, I have some parts to send you for anno' and I claim Red as the main color for my ROAR Nats car!