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I'm going to have to take off my front and rear arms again to measure them. I could swear that the fronts and rears are the exact same size.

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It's amazing how much I am learning from this thread. I never would have thought there would be so many subtle changes from year to year.

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tamiyadan wrote:

In this picture, which are the fronts, and which are the rears? I think mine are backwards! Now that I look closer, I see there is a difference, and the arms I have are the same as in this picture.,....

short ones up front, long ones in the back.

scr8p wrote:short ones up front, long ones in the back.

Thank you. Those are exactly what I have (size and design) on mine. On the front arms, the carrier is on the inner spot.

the inner hole is how they need to be built from the kit. they had an optional wide front suspension kit that utilized the outside front hinge pin hole. it consisted of longer universals and tie rods, as well as 2mm hubs (6mm was stock). this way, you got the benefit of the wider suspension, and the track width would stay the same with the original rims.

Toast'ie , don't worry: I figured out you had those arms up-front. I took off the rear arms I had up front, and put the same as yours; just to make sure I'd come up with a solution that works for you and all standard cars.

ok, I have the pics up and ready for you:

In the rear are the Academy parts GRT-03

but they are hard to find, and pretty expensive for U-J's, so I'd say use Kyosho LA231 "universal swing shaft" (68mm). Those are rebuildable CVD's and probably better quality anyway.
For the axle carrier : I couldn't find which car or brand it is but think Tamiya. Hopefully someone can confirm when seeing these pictures...add 4 5X11 beairngs also.

Alternatively for the rear: if you don't mind to go down to roughly 240mm total width in the rear: you can use the original hub carriers with Kyosho UM510 or UM522


In front I used Kyosho LA257 "universal swingshaft" (73mm), with a shock seal O-ring over the axle at the in-side. I used the outer mounting position on the front arms. I have not measured the steering rods and upperlinks yet.


The weels I used are: Kyosho W5028W (W5028Y is the yellow version I believe should anyone prefer those), and in the front W5026W. Alternatively you could use the slightly narrower W5029W.
LA218 contains the crosspins and hexes (I just ude what I had lying around instead, and the included material with the academy axles)

A couple pics with a ruler for dimensions:



and the general look

Perfect! If what is coming in doesn't work, I have a new course of action. Thanks man!

Toasted Coastie wrote:
HPI part 103361 11.95 per set of 2
ACME Buggy Spare Parts: Part# 30048 67mm 1.75 each

If I am wrong, I am out $31. I'm willing to bet one off wheels from New Era, as much as they like me there, are going to cost me 4X that number.

So far, this is a fail. The head and pins of these dogbones are too big. Even grinding them down is going to mess things up.

Going to be Mr. Ed's plan.

I'll test the UM510 rears with the standard hubs for you: to sse if you really need the mistery carriers

Mr. ED wrote:I'll test the UM510 rears with the standard hubs for you: to sse if you really need the mistery carriers

They fit fin, but need to be shimmed. Actually, everything fits great, but needs to be shimmed. Stopping at new era on the way home tomorrow night to pick up shims, nuts to keep the rims on and rubber for the rims. I'm pretty stoked.

How wide does the rear end up at with the stock cast carriers and UM-510?
(there are 2 blue spacers included with UM-510, they should probably go on the outside; otherwise the axle reches to deep into the outdrivecups of the diff and will bind when the suspension is compressed.)