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templeofspeed wrote: IIRC the B2/B3 fronts are discontinued.

What you need are wheels from the Thunder Tiger Phoenix BX, which isn't a retooled cheap version of the B3, oh no, it's a totally different buggy which just bears a passing resemblance to a B3 Not sure its available yet though. I used HPIs hex adaptors and use HPIs old Super Star wheels to fit 2.2" tyres on my RC10. Uses the MIP CVDs for the original RC10 with 1/4" axles.

Available, I've had one sat in a box for a year now
And as far as we can tell it's a usual AE TT branding thing, all parts fit so far between B3 and phoenix

I need my car to be legal width if I'm going to race it.

I don't mind gluing some tyres up on B3 rims, but I do have a hell of a lot of B4 rims

G

templeofspeed wrote:My LHS stocks the B3 rear wheels as replacements for the CRT.5. Shouldn't be a problem. IIRC the B2/B3 fronts are discontinued.

Someone also mentioned Duratrax Evader rear wheels, too. I don't know if they're 5mm or 3/16" though.

the duratrax "nitro" evader rear wheels are supposed to be the same as a b3 rear, from what i've heard. i'm not sure about the fronts, though. i don't know what size bearings they use. i had planned on getting a set to find out for sure, but the last couple time i ordered from tower, i forgot to get them.

Hey purpletimbo can you verify if the bearings in the car are metric or imperial? I've been told it's metric but i'd be really surprised if they went to the effort of remaking the moulds.

Those duratrax wheels may be the right offset but they're only 1.25 inch wide. B3 widebody rims are 1.5 inch wide same as B4.

I wanted to swap rims between my B4 and B3 so I made these longer axles with spacers..



But if you look at the B4 the rear arms pivot from the same distance out from the centre and are the same length, the way they changed the offset on the B4 was to offset the hub carrier further out. So you could probably use B4 hub carriers (with the hinge pin hole drilled to 1/8") and driveshafts I haven't tried but will, waiting on an order from tower to arrive with some extra hub carriers. I guess it would end up slightly narrower on an RC10 though because the hub carrier isn't offset quite as far in as the B3 one.

I recall also a widening trick for the GT which was to use T4 (or B4) rear CVD axle stubs and conical spacers behind the driving pins to get the rear width right. I don't think there's any problem with using B4 front wheels, although there are wider alloy front axles from the GT available if you can get through the tech block. My (soon to be raced) vintage racer is using B3 rears on 3/16" cvd's...since I'm unburdened with any new fangled wheels and tires ...

I've just fitted a B4 rear hub and cvd axle to the back of my tub RC10 and it looks very close to being the legal width

I can't fit one to the other saide as I only seem to have one new one spare

G

Just drill out the hinge pin hole on a B4 hub to run B4 rears on an rc10. Get a B4 cvd kit and you're all set.

I'm going to investigae more tonight, but I think the actual driveshaft part of a B4 CVD might be too long.

I need this thing to be legal width as I'm going to race it.

G

http://www.mhm-modellbau.de/part-TT-PD7053.php
guess that makes em not metric then?

I've hit a snag
I've just got my stealth fitted. With the B4 rear hub, and stub axle the bone part of the driveshaft is too long and bottoms out in the diff.

Looks like it's a no go.

G

Northy, did you put all the axle washers on the outside of the hub? If the bone is still to long, I think losi cvd bones are a little shorter than the B4 ones, but I'm not sure which ones (xx or xxx). Maybe some guys on here working on losi cars can give you some losi cvd bone lengths.

Losi CVD bones have a much larger ball end...no worky.

Yeh, losi ones have a large ball

There is only room for one thin shim, no where near enough.

Anyone any other ideas?

At this rate I might be looking for a lot of runner 2.2" B3 rear wheels

G

Hey Joey, how did the HPI hex and CRT rims work out? This is for the 1/4" axles right?