RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I just noticed this one you got going now, you are putting together some nice buggies. Good idea to fix the bell crank problem.

Very nice !
I am not certain but based upon that picture and angle I think your 1st pic of the caster blocks might be 25 degree ones (not 30 per your question).
They look like mine, and I know mine are 25 deg blocks as they came out of a new package I had.
Yours may be from top to bottom, 25, 20 and 15 deg blocks.

I can tell you out in front on the house (grass, asphalt & concrete), the black car turns on a dime, but that might be tires. It is set up to run B4 fronts with M3 proline ribs on there. They probably bite a bit better than the TQ71s.

When I hit the track, I will have both the goldie and the black car, if it isnt working for me, I will swap components and have a try. My list of little bits and bobs is finally getting big enough to put an order into Tower...but now the TT front wheels are not in stock..

It has been my experience that using the wide GT axles and B4 tires/wheels in the front makes the car turn like crazy. I am doing just about everything you could imagine to take steering away from mine.

Thanks, that is good info to know. Since I am building my son a B4 (he doesnt want to drive a CE, crazy 8 year old!) I will have tires available, I will keep a set of axles in the "tuning" box.

The buggy looks great! I was wondering if you had got the tub back. I am glad you like the tub and good luck with getting the car dialed in.

Jake

So I am saving the chassis wrap for now...it wont go on either car, but I did get the body and trimmed it out...here it is on this car:





I'm going to pick up a mirage next. I like the Protech, but with 2 buggies, I cant have the same body on both

Very Nice! This car looks fantastic!

So I got my Mirage now...but it is still clear. Hopefully I can get a hold of a local guy I know that paints great to see what he can lay down on it.

This car will be getting the B4 rear carriers & B44 rear cvas. I have 4 other builds/cars that use B4 front/rear and I plan on picking up a few sets of white Rulux wheels to run on all the cars. I would have loved to do the B3/TT wheels, but sourcing them and then buying duplicate rear tires for different offset wheels really started weighing in heavily on the RC budget forcast (or lack of budget, LOL).

Updated pics when I get some movement on this one...my TCP build is complete, but the JRX 5 link car is almost ready to start assembling....guess I should build an Ultima to round out the "fleet".

Havent updated this in a while....

So today was my first attempt at racing in a zero timing stock class.

Components used:

Mamba Max Speedo - blinky no timing mode
Trinity Duo (1) 17.5, geared 33/72 with Stealth Tranny
Checkpoint 20C 5400 batteries

Lets just say MANY racers were very suprised to see a 20 year old car ran by a 40+ year old guy make it into the A main. Can was a bit more twitchy than I like, but drivable. I wasnt able to stay for the main (I left @ 9:45 pm after getting to the track @ 5:30 am) they were still over 10 races away from getting to my A main. That and a very tired & grouchy 9 year old plus 1 1/2 hour drive home....so we packed up early. I did take a couple pics of the car with my son's little camera. I will see if I can post them up tomorrow - after some much needed rest.

pic pls.

I had to find it...I never did upload them into Photobucket until now. Here is the only shot that was worth anything:

Had a blast racing tonight. Been a long time since I put the goldie onto indoor high bite clay. First time ever since I went back to all stock arms/hubs/wheels. Mounted up some clay compound tires and tossed it on the track.

Electronics on the car have come and gone, been robbed for other cars/project and such.

But currently running this:

Futaba 9401 servo
FlySky GT3B radio
Novak Tempest Pro speedo
Trinity Speed Gems Titanite motor (15X2), geared 20/87

Pretty sure I am running #2 pistons all around with 35/30 or 40/35 (dont remember which)

Here was my problem, push entering the corner (unless nailing the brakes). But great steering mid corner/exit (thinking too heavy/lite of oil).
Black springs up front/Green springs rear. Pretty much standard basic set up that most run for shock positions (middle out up front, inner top-outer bottom on the rear). Camber links in standard CE long positions.

couple changes I was thinking of to make the steering more aggressive (needs to rotate more, without loosing rear sidebite):

take 1 limiter out of the rear shocks (barely any down travel right now)
Try 30/35 (rear was slapping hard most jumps)
Maybe shorten the rear camber link (to the Ruffy/Worlds mid hole on the bulkhead)

Second issue, because of the rear slap, the back end became unsettled really easily.


If I could calm down the rear, get the car to rotate, keep the old brushed motor running fine and slap in a nice freshly charged lipo, I would be giving heck to those plastic cars.

I've done more tuning, painted a fresh body and decided to drop my brushless system back in there. Car is pretty quick in the "front yard" bench test.





The "Set Up and Race Discussion" in Temple's RC10 Tech Forum has all the details of the set up and latest race performance.

Post race pictures:





mmmm, big bores





highly abrasive track, this is 2 packs!!