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I don't have a drill with me, so that's out of the question anyway.

I managed to use the Dremel and reduce the solder on the bottom side. The solder on the top side is mine, so the will be easy to clean up.

Well...I still couldn't unsolder off the bottom

I just cleaned it up a bit and changed how I soldered them on the top. Only a couple of unwanted melted spots, lol

Let your solderig iron heat up adequately then apply some solder on to the tip to tin it. Only then do you apply the tip to the joint...this will enable the heat to transfer better. As someone mentioned earlier ensure your soldering iron tip is clean prior to using as well.

uzzi wrote:Let your solderig iron heat up adequately then apply some solder on to the tip to tin it. Only then do you apply the tip to the joint...this will enable the heat to transfer better. As someone mentioned earlier ensure your soldering iron tip is clean prior to using as well.

I let the iron heat up properly, even used a new tip. Tinned it every time and still couldn't melt the type of solder Novak used. My soldering iron is a Team Checkpoint 950 and is quite new.

It was a learning process, because I will likely not change out the wires again on another Novak esc. I did this on a Tekin esc and it was as easy as an old man at the bunny ranch. And the Novak was hard, like that same old man at the bunny ranch.

Castle Creations oem solder is the same way. My weller is no match for their solder and it hits 900* easily. I have tried drilling, sniping it short, and pulling a few strands at a time all with moderate success. Red wire has no business under my lexan.

I tried to remove the wires, and ran into the same problem. I noticed the heatsink was doing just that and taking a lot of the heat. I removed the heatsink, but still could not loosen the factory solder up. I was afraid of ruining the speed controller so I decided to keep the Tamiya connector for now.

Waiting for Novak's recommendation.