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Looks real nice Bob.

Nice work as always Bob! That car literally turns me on a little bit...

Thanks for the compliments! The pinion is a 30 and with the 10.5 motor, it would still pull wheelies at anytime. Cool to see, but not to turn! Backed off the slipper a bit and toned down the power with the controller and was a bit better. I played around with it and was able to make a few decent laps with my lacking driving skills. It did take some really hard tumbles and kept on going even though last tumble broke a shock shaft and rear mount. I need a HUGE amount of practice just learning to drive again, as well as being able to tune the car/controls to my liking. I had someone else I know who is pretty good with a B4 drive my car several laps and he commented on the facts that it doesn't turn near as well as the B4, and you have to hit the jumps perfect to get it to land properly. Two things for sure after I drove his B4 many laps. Even with my limited driving ability, the B4 is way more forgiving. I noticed that the old 10 had a much heavier feel to it which led to a harder crash when not hitting a jump right.

Wow, a 30/81 is a big 10.5 gear-

Did you start with the B4.1 indoor setup?

It has a 75 spur with the 30 pinion. I used the green front truck springs, and rear silver buggy springs. 35 weight oil in all shocks. I played around with spring tension on the shocks as well as castor/camber changes. Also tried double D's and rips, then barcodes front and rear. I did figure out that not running any drag brake was the best for getting the jumps right, and very little brake while running. Basically I'm starting from scratch on everything. Heck, just discovering how much tightening the wheel tension on my controller made was a big thing.

My 10.5 on a big track and a low (35c) pack is running a 81/23 with the 2.25, try black front springs, 32.5 and #3 piston, plus 30 deg caster and 21mm ride height, plus 1.25oz on the nose on top of the bulkhead. Green rear springs with 30 and #1 piston and 20mm ride height. At 35 all around and that spring combo your not transitioning any weight at all, hence the lack.of steering

Charlie don't surf wrote:Those trans really love to kill idlers and topshaft as well, the top gear is too small to mesh well

Really? That's the first time I hear that. No one ever complained about the RPM trans, I now have one in my runner with a pretty wild motor, I hear it will no hold up?

Charlie don't surf wrote:My 10.5 on a big track and a low (35c) pack is running a 81/23 with the 2.25, try black front springs, 32.5 and #3 piston, plus 30 deg caster and 21mm ride height, plus 1.25oz on the nose on top of the bulkhead. Green rear springs with 30 and #1 piston and 20mm ride height. At 35 all around and that spring combo your not transitioning any weight at all, hence the lack.of steering

Thanks Reg, I'm going to try that combo out in a practice session next time around. Is it best to play with spring tension for ride height, or shock limiters? Also going to try a 28 or so pinion since the track is pretty short. The Trinity motor I have is great except for the fact the the plastic that is around the sensor wire plug is very thin and broke in only the second heat causing the sensor plug not wanting to stay in. Aggravating when you have no power due to a silly problem like that.

Preload collars are your method of adjusting ride height (measured at the bottom of the chassis to a pit board) droop is adjusted with internal limiters, and that really depends on the track/traction. Too much droop and the car looses forward drive in corners, too little it can be skatey. Droop also plays a big part in forward bite (acceleration), braking stability (decelleration) and corner speed (roll) there are lots of different things all wrapped into one package when it is right, then when you adjust one thing at a time you can see changes in LRP times or section improvements.

Asso_man! wrote:

Charlie don't surf wrote:Those trans really love to kill idlers and topshaft as well, the top gear is too small to mesh well

Really? That's the first time I hear that. No one ever complained about the RPM trans, I now have one in my runner with a pretty wild motor, I hear it will no hold up?

I stripped out an idler gear in my RPM 2:65 at the VONATs running a 27Turn brushed motor. Although after replacing the idler gear I have not had any problems(knock on wood) with my 10.5. But I always carry a spare with me now.

Just my .02,
While they might not strip all the time, the vast difference in circumference of the gears means they don't mesh as well, my 10t racer trans is stupid loud

I'm using a HG aluminum diff gear, Robinson metal idler, and of course the top gear is metal. Lubed it up well with black grease until it gets broke in good. After that, I'm gonna try a little Lucas oil additive. It makes just a little bit more noise than stock, but hopefully will be more quiet with the Lucas.

I wonder what would've happened if I used aluminum rear mounts with this kinda break or if the RPM mounts are stronger? Don't really want to replace very many white rear mounts.

well, rpm is more flexible for sure. Absorbs impact more. Hard to tell what it would have done though in that situation. Might've tore out one of the screw holes if it was rpm...


Todd

just looked at the race results and seen you did do better this week out, so congrats on that. that's a tough break in the main though. (sorry bad pun) that is not a part i would personally swap out for alloy. now if you make a habit of busting that one piece then i would look into the other options. if you can fund the rpm versions i would go with those though.