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could i technically run the car without the washer or would that jam the diff?

Your thinking the wrong way. You need a thicker washer to make it tight, by removing what is there you make it even looser. You could ADD another of those small washers and it would probably work, but its going to be really gritty and wear very fast.

so is the washer I'm missing the same size as the one on the other side of the diff? Are the center holes the same size? I didn't think so but I'm not sure.

ok never mind I should have googled that first...

Should black grease be used on the thrust bearing/washers? Or is that just for the stealth? Also in the Halsey rebuild instructions - if up to .015" is removed on the spline plate hole so the gear drive pivot can be moved down to get smoother gear mesh with the idlers then you won't be able to use bearings for the outdrives, correct? Moving the drive gears down on the spline plate would throw off the alignment with the bearings on the outside of the gearbox housing. He accounts for this in opening up the through hole so there's no rubbing since potentially the outdrives won't be centered depending on if the drive pivot was moved.

I don't think it asks for it in the manual but I always grease it.

Also, most people know but some do not.....stealth white grease is not for the 6 gear. It with work but the old stuff is my preference.

you can use any 'real' grease you want for the thrust washer, just not the silicone diff grease. So yes, you could use stealth black grease on the thrust bearing and stealth diff grease on the diff balls.

as for moving the pivot point around by filing the hole, I've built a handful of 6 gears, and never had to do that. Profiling the gears and running ball bearings always gave the best results.

OK. Thanks. With the grease I was more questioning if it should be used at all on the thrust bearing in the 6 gear since the manual doesn't call for it. Should have worded it better.