RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

scr8p wrote:ouch....

i would keep whatever is still usable, then take the rest out back and shoot it.

Target practice?

You're going to need a new tub, front kick-up, and nose tubes.

I was going to point out that welding can make the aluminum soft but if the tub is cracked there's no point as that's even worse. As has already been mentioned to you, all that bracing needs to come out and without it your tub is probably too far gone to use.

It's pretty bad but, honestly, I was expecting worse.

Hmmm... Maybe pictures don't do it justice?:)

Yeah, I would honestly say look for a decent clean roller for under a hundred bucks on ebay, and take the existing one down to pieces and keep the parts that aren't broken as spares.

and make sure the new car has nose brace tubes installed.

Not to go against the chassis brace idea, but my vertical braces have prevented rollups when the car makes a front end collision. I can do without the other aluminum though, so I'll try to get a new chassis. As for nose brace tubes, they didn't do anything except break when I whacked the poll. Is there a better way to brace the front end?

My nose brace tubes honestly didn't brace my front end at all. The left one just bent and broke in my accident a little while ago. Were mine just too weak or are there reinforced ones available?

Your objective really needs to be to stop driving into poles instead of trying to make your RC10 indestructible.

Welling need a few things for that. Some things needed are a faster servo, better tie rods, mine fall out, a better steering bellcrank, mine drops my screws and disconnects my tie rods, and a wheel set up that makes the car corner better. I've drkven everything from monster trucks to buggies and this is the only car i cant calibrated correctly to steer so it does have some issues with that.

no, not really. I suppose you could make them stronger, but I think the real solution is to prevent an accident of that kind of severity in the first place.

Really? Ok I'll say Its my driving then. I suppose it could use a little work.

holy crapola! yeah man the easiest thing to do is buy a roller in better condition and use the good parts as spares.

all that alloy isn't doint it any good, and if you bend nose tubes often then you are driving/crashing to hard.

time to hit the bay or the bst section here to find yourself a nice one.

if you feel that you "need" the braces then get a new tub and use a&l's chassis braces, but you don't need them at all.
new tub, nose tubes, front kick plate if it's misshapen, new turnbuckle ends and ball studs at least, new shock towers, fresh stealth, and you'll be on your way. don't even worry about tires or wheels until it drives again and you see how it handles.
-1 camber all around is a good starting point too.

Dave145 wrote:Not to go against the chassis brace idea, but my vertical braces have prevented rollups when the car makes a front end collision. I can do without the other aluminum though, so I'll try to get a new chassis. As for nose brace tubes, they didn't do anything except break when I whacked the poll. Is there a better way to brace the front end?

Rather than a bunch of heavy bracing for the chassis, maybe you might consider a bumper of some sort for the front to hopefully absorb some of the force of a collision before it gets to the metal of the nose piece? The bumper I used to have on my rc10 was angled upward at the same angle as the nose piece which tended to direct the front end upward rather than transferring all of the force of a collision directly into the chassis too. The chassis and even the nose tubes are pretty tough if you can deflect some of the initial impact. My bumper protected the front wheels too, which was what I had more trouble with breaking.


Jeff

Dave145 wrote:8. How can I make my ball bearings spin like new again? Most of the are CRAP and are pretty locked to be pretty similar to bushings. (again)

Avid sells all the bearing for a buck a piece. Very good deal for runners. Cheaper and Easier to throw away old ones with problems than find parts that get destroyed from a locked up bearing.

Todd