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REMJ666 wrote:Nice ride...

Thanks I'm going to be upgrading it soon

B4 cvds or B44 cvds? looks like your using stock rear arms (or the RPM version of them), B4 cvds would be way too long. the rear looks narrow, but it could just be me. do you have a rear wheel off shot to show the B4 wheel conversion?

I only ask because I went down that road (b4 conversion set up for wheels), fought handling for quite a while until I went back to all original stuff and the correct offset rear wheels...car is a dream to drive now

i think its the b44 setup im happy to change to whatever is best now is the time to do it if its just a wheel change or a going back original ive got the parts. are there wider rear arms available? or just offset for the wheels needs to change?

what raised my eyebrows is seeing the rear shock "moved in" yet so close to the wheel. there are a few WOIN builds using the standard rear arm with B4 carriers & B44 rear cvas. Its a proven set up that gets your width as needed. that set up (as-is) is a touch narrow, and can be widened a bit with some axle wideners (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTA0&P=7) that give you more clearance and bring the rear out closer to ROAR legal width

The other route is return to stock, use B2/B3 cvds and Thunder Tiger Phoenix BX II rear wheels (B3 clone/re-release wheel). Perfect offset for the stock rear end, gets the width you need and the stock geometry remains intact.

Thanks for all the help I'm gonna get the spacers ordered

Im gonna go to the lhs in the am for some small set screw I have a idea to eliminate the eclipson the arms

i ordered the rc carbon works towers for the b4 shocks. very happy with the fit and quality. ive been having the car sitting on the side of the sofa for the last week working on it a little here and there. i had ordered brand new b4 shocks then came across these they have the avid aluminum collars and shock cups to fit the big bore shocks i know its silly. big bore springs on standard shock but hey i picked them up for 40$ they had been rebuilt and he gave me all the stock parts cool. all i had to do was add oil i went 25 front 35 rear with the softest big bore springs he had. i think the springs are avid also. anyway i got it mostly together still need to adjust all my turnbuckles. feels sooo much smoother than before also put the rear spacers on her. i had a bunch of new hardware and the blue washers so i used them where i could. heres a couple pics. the lrp system in it is nice but has no reverse and the motor is a 5.5 way too hot. im gonna throw in a sensored losi system i have with a novak 21.5 sensored i had in a vta car. should be perfect.

pic

pic2

3

I changed to the houge bb steering and now my servo arm turnbuckle hits the servo. Its like would need to raise the ball stud on the houge steering arm is there another way or just bend the turnbuckle to clear the sevo. I'm not sure what steering rack.I had before but it cleared.

The "nut" that is the inner bearing carrier for the bellcranks needs to be installed so the hex is on the top side, not the bottom as it goes through the bellcranks. Also AE low profile ball studs are a must on the inner camber link mounts and bellcrank mounts.

250r, I placed a small spacer on the ballstud going into the steering assembly, using a long thread ballstud. A little touch/rub shouldnt bother the car much, if at all. One thing I would change before hitting the track, lay the top of the rear shocks all the way inside. For the front, I go back and forth between the outer hole (where you have it now) and the middle hole. The outer hole seems to give my car better turn in, the middle hole seems to be smoother/more consistent, but less steering.

Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it. Charlie I sent a pm to you and hoppty about BST access and never heard anything? I've got over 800 feedback on eBay and a few on rctech Ive got alot of stuff to.offer and love buying stuff for sure let me know.

Thanks jk. I'm hoping to have her up and running again soon. For the low profile ball studs on the steering are they for clearance reasons. Looks like I'll need to order the longer threaded ones. I'm going to go to the hobby shop tomorrow they may have a long threaded ball stud