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JK Racing wrote:yes, if using the truck nose/longer arms, you need this tower:



you can run standard front buggy shocks or truck front shocks:

Ok, good to know. I guess that I will have to exchange what I had already purchased. No big deal.

However, it would not appear that the nose of the body might not fit through the opening of the tower. Might that be the case?

scr8p wrote:

mdutcher wrote:

JK Racing wrote:oh heck no, this isnt RCTECH!! wasnt sure you saw that on the header cards is all we are all here together to get these beasts back on the track and kickin some plastic butt...its all good

Yeah, I did order the ones that you posted in your pics above. I am good to go! Thanks again for that insight!

if you're talking about the shock towers, the front one pictured above will not work on your car. you need the narrow "worlds" style tower they offer.

Just out of curiosity, why will only the narrow one work for my setup? Does have to do with how it attaches to the RC10GT bulk heads? Thanks.

more pictures? okay

Narrow cut nose for the narrow tower:



Standard front end for the stock buggy front tower:

I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.
The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.

More to come.

Mounting a Lipo battery.... how have you guys handled this for your cars? What mods did you have to make to the stock battery braces front and rear, if needed? Please post pics if that is easy to help illustrate.

rear bulkhead

• nothing

front battery cup has a few different ways you can go...

• drill new holes further forward in the chassis
  cut the front of the battery cup and let the battery go through (what I did)
  use a shorty lipo & back fill with foam

Oh, the front end looks great.

For the battery mounting, just ditch the stock battery cup altogether. I used B44 thumb screws and battery posts, work beautifully and just have the front servo mount to prevent it from moving forward (which it wont cause its shoehorned in as it is).

The Gens Ace 5000 mah lipos fit perfectly. I had to stuff it in the rear bulkhead a little bit but hey, its a runner so not a big deal.

mdutcher wrote:I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.

rc10 a.jpg

rc10 b.jpg

The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.

More to come.

This might be a mock up thing on your front end, but you have 0 or 5 degree caster blocks in there right now- you'll want to switch those out to a 25 or 30

you also need to slide the nose plate back to shorten the wheel base and fix what will most likely be steering geometry issues. either that, or keep the long wheelbase and move the steering bellcrank forward to the front set of holes.

Charlie don't surf wrote:

mdutcher wrote:I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.

rc10 a.jpg

rc10 b.jpg

The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.

More to come.

This might be a mock up thing on your front end, but you have 0 or 5 degree caster blocks in there right now- you'll want to switch those out to a 25 or 30

Oh, I did not notice that and thank you for letting me know. I think that currently the caster blocks are 5 degree based on the number that is written underneath them. What is the difference between a 25 or 30 degree? I will need to shop around for those... any suggestions on where I might be able to look for them that will work with my current A-arm set up?

scr8p wrote:you also need to slide the nose plate back to shorten the wheel base and fix what will most likely be steering geometry issues. either that, or keep the long wheelbase and move the steering bellcrank forward to the front set of holes.

I noticed that I have that flexibility to move the front end around as you have noted. However, if I were to slide the nose in, then what would have to take place for the longer nose tubes? Would those have to be cut down to size?? If I chose to not do that, than I would have to move the steering bell crank forward to the other set of holes.

When you say steering geometry issues with my initial setup, what would you anticipate to occur? With the correction as you have indicated, what will be the anticipated steering output?

So, here is my latest update. I will let the pictures do the talking first.
I think that it is coming along just fine. What I have done at this time were:

RC Carbon Works Rear Shock Tower
B4 spacer and additional spacer on rear axle
Front GT Bulkhead
Front GT Nose Tubes
Front Caster block 30 deg
Moved steering assembly to forward holes
Added electronics (servo is just temporary)

Still to come: B4 Threaded shocks

Enjoy!

Hi your car looks great im in the process of doing up a worlds car to race just wondered where do you get the front stub axles from I think I need those to over come the difference in wheel off set to run b4 wheels?

they're wide gt axles. you can get them pretty much anywhere.

Thank you very much.