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Gotcha
I hadn't even noticed the arms were backwards. There may be a little caster built in, if so you could run the wedges to pull it back. Having a leading axle will be interesting- kinda curious how it will work out.

If you need a longer chassis but don't want a new chassis, it would be pretty easy to build adjustable plates that could bolt on

This version of the car is actually bringing the front wheels closre to the rear inward. In the stock position the wheelbase is too long for the HPI body and most others. I simply drilled a second set of holes and moved the the front suspension back and flipped the arms around. To put it back to stock I just loosen the screws and move it forward back to the stock location and with the arms swapped around back around. I'm picking up a complete front supsension so I can just swap them back and forth when I want to change bodies.

I might be on to something.

Modern cars do not use pure Ackermann steering, partly because it ignores important dynamic and compliant effects, but the principle is sound for low speed manoeuvres. Some race cars use reverse Ackermann geometry to compensate for the large difference in slip angle between the inner and outer front tyres while cornering at high speed. The use of such geometry helps reduce tyre temperatures during high-speed cornering but compromises performance in low speed maneuvers.[3]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry#Design_and_choice_of_geometry

Well I got my cells in today so away I go!

Build up pack-Check!
Charge new pack - Check!
Bind new reciever to the radio - Check!
Set up steering - Check!
Set up throttle - Negative function! Houston, we have a problem.

Looks like the T-4 is probably crap. The light blinks when I pull the trigger on the throttle but nothing happens. Tried setting the neutral and speed settings on it and still nothing. Might have another go at it in the morning but looking like it's done. Bummer!

Here are the cells from Only Batteries.com .


I added yellow shrink wrap to give it a vintage look.


Here is the T4 showing it's light but no action. It will acknowledge the signal when I pull the trigger but nothing else. Probably just trash it and go brushless.

Thinking I'll take the T-4 apart shortly and check the wiring. The comunication cable to the receiver was really beat so I replaced part of it. Perhaps the contacts at the board are in bad shape too. Worth a try anyway.


Just picked up these BBS wheels along with another complete front suspension for version two of the car. Foams are on the way too. This car will see some carpet racing soon along with the RC12e clone. Going to see if I can get some of the locals to start racing vintage cars for fun on the weekends.

I think you need to change your thread title. That thing definitely deserves a better description.

x2 Definitely looks too good for that title.

I used to think that I did some pretty top notch work until you and plastizapCA+ came around lmao. Really killer job on this project. Looks beyond awesome.

PlastiZapCA+ wrote:Well I got my cells in today so away I go!


Set up throttle - Negative function! Houston, we have a problem.

Looks like the T-4 is probably crap. The light blinks when I pull the trigger on the throttle but nothing happens. Tried setting the neutral and speed settings on it and still nothing. Might have another go at it in the morning but looking like it's done. Bummer!

same thing happened to me when i bought a Higtec radio. The wiring needs to be switched on the plug for the Novak. I took the setup to the shop I bought the unit from and the guy figured out what was wrong and also gave me a new receiver. Sorry to tell you but you burned out the receiver just like I did. My advice is to buy a flysky in the future and save yourself a bundle the controller is absolutely awesome! http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html?gclid=COrGm6_LyrUCFQSg4AodKU4Aeg this controller has 5 star reviews all over the net. and the price is unbelievable. If you spend more than $50 you get free shipping so buy yourself a pile of receivers and you can use one controller for all of your cars. If you dont already know about this.

If the light blinks when the trigger is pulled then it is wired correctly! Don't reverse any wires until you know for sure or you will blow the rx or esc.

Have you tried the motor to make sure it runs? It could just be a hung brush. Grab each of the braid that come out of the brush and pull it out just a tad, then let the spring snap the brush back into place.

It's not the receiver for sure. I plugged the steering servo into the slot where the throttle was and it steers when I pull the trigger. I ran the motor in my RC12e for a short time and also took it apart and lubed it before installing. The motor turns nice and smooth. I double checked the wiring and it's all as it should. I have a T-4 in my 12i plus the original instuction manual so I know the wiring is correct. I would swap them out but don't want to cut the nice Associated leads on my 12i. The only thing left would be the signal cable. The original signal cable was really shredded and covered with sticky residue from servo tape. Going to pull it in a little while and replace the whole thing. Need to find the blasted probes for my tester so I can check continuity.

Thanks Thumb and GreenHell! I've changed my thread title by popular demand.

durb69 wrote:I used to think that I did some pretty top notch work until you and plastizapCA+ came around lmao. Really killer job on this project. Looks beyond awesome.

You do top notch work! Heck I was inspired by all you guys to push hard on my projects so I could keep up.

So did you say the light flashes when you give it throttle? Like the light knows its getting a signal but not sending power to the motor?

Could be a lot of things but it wouldn't hurt to throw a voltmeter on the motor leads and see what's up. The setup on those older speed controls was tricky and it may just be that simple

With the name change I thought the thread got moved. I was lookin' around like "Where the hell'd it go?".

Man, seeing those individual cells in the chassis next to that big fuse brings back memories... gotta get back going on my 10L. Got sidetracked as usual.

Too bad about the T4. Hope you can get it sorted out. It sure looks the part.