RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So, no real updates on the build... although I did go to home depot and purchased some washers. $0.22 later and my steering is sitting at a better angle where the ball ends don't rub on the nose. *insert balls rubbing on nose jokes here*



On an unrelated note we got our new house! Well new to us... was built in 1928. It's got a sweet mans basement where I can get up my lightbox and work. Moving in on Monday!

I got my bearing and diff ball order from Avid... I've had a few free moments to work on this project since the move so I assembled the rear hubs with the bearings and installed the CVDs. I've also removed the stealth transmission in order to countersink the holes (purchased an 82 degree one from Fastenal). But my drill seems to not want to hold a charge... not sure I want to countersink these holes with a hand drill. Has anyone tried it?

Somewhere in the mail system is motor, rear wing, antenna mount and body posts, shock rebuild kit and oil. Rebuilding the diff and shocks are next on my list of things to do... just waiting on parts to arrive.

When I tried that setup the bones bound up inside the outdrives when the suspension was collapsed. Maybe I did something wrong?

Orange wrote:When I tried that setup the bones bound up inside the outdrives when the suspension was collapsed. Maybe I did something wrong?

Hmmm... interesting. I tried spinning the wheels through the full range of motion and it seemed to spin freely. Was it under load when it did that?

just looking at your pic, going by your ball stud placement, it doesn't look like you would gain and negative camber during compression. that could be one reason you don't experience any issues.

just speculating of course.....

Got a few updates... this week was a rebuildathon!

I got all the shocks rebuilt, and rebuilt the diff as well. Got the transmission holes countersunk and put the stealth back in. I got a set of B4 tires and wheels from another forum member which i think look pretty good.

Waiting for the motor, wing, and still trying to decide on a body. I'm thinking about a viper right now... anyway, on to the pics!

Looks good !! Im new to this forum and this is actually is my first post but I have a question for u, I noticed the rear of the motor plate is cut down at an angle and have only seen the later black plates cut down like that, never a gold motor plate, did associated do this from the factory or was this a common thing guys were doing to modify their cars ???

Looks great!

Travertini wrote:Looks good !! Im new to this forum and this is actually is my first post but I have a question for u, I noticed the rear of the motor plate is cut down at an angle and have only seen the later black plates cut down like that, never a gold motor plate, did associated do this from the factory or was this a common thing guys were doing to modify their cars ???

Yah, this was a thing that racers did back in the day to keep weight down. I actually bought it like that from a forum member...

Got the motor in the mail today, the treads to mount are metric which is strange...I'll have to round some up. I countersunk the holes in the shock tower opened up the rear bulkhead to accept the gens ace battery (don't hate). I fitted the receiver, and speed controller, and servo. I don't have a rod long enough to connect to the bellcranks and it looks like if I have a straight link it might interfere with the servo. Not sure what I'm going to do with that. I might try mounting it different ways.

I'll be needing a bunch of random electrical banana connectors... screws etc. I've also ordered a body, an Associated Viper. Going to get my old (25+ year old to be a little more precise) airbrush out and see if it still works. Going to round up some decals and paint once I decide the colors, I'd like to have a retro style racing paint scheme...mmmm.

He there,

I've got a couple of questions relating to the conversion to B4 wheels.

First question; Is the front track width the same with the B4 axles and caster blocks?

Second question; How well does the rear suspension work with the B44 CVA's and hubs? Does it affect the geometry of the back end, roll centre, camber gain etc?

If it all works well, I might do the same mods to mine.

Cheers

David

dj_kilroy wrote:He there,

I've got a couple of questions relating to the conversion to B4 wheels.

First question; Is the front track width the same with the B4 axles and caster blocks?

Second question; How well does the rear suspension work with the B44 CVA's and hubs? Does it affect the geometry of the back end, roll centre, camber gain etc?

If it all works well, I might do the same mods to mine.

Cheers

David

Hey there,

I think the front track is more narrow. I only suspect this at this point as i don't have a B4. As for your other question, the rear setup seems to have minimal camber gain right now. I haven't had it out at the track yet so i don't know how well it will handle.

I'll report back after i run it...

Man that is looking great! Good job.

Definitely let us know how it runs, I may also do these same mods to make a racer to run at the track. I don't want to go buy a 4.2 like everyone else, that's boring, but I do want to be competitive as well.

Orange wrote:When I tried that setup the bones bound up inside the outdrives when the suspension was collapsed. Maybe I did something wrong?

You needed to use the bone from the rear of the Jconcepts BJ4 4wd buggy #1137 if you really want the correct size.

[quote="uniquenamehere"]Got the motor in the mail today, the treads to mount are metric which is strange...I'll have to round some up.

not really, Metric motor screws have been used since 1984 on the RC10