RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

BUgle i have some nip white rear uprights if you need them,and I live on the Central Coast which is handy! I can pop them in the mail for you and you'd have them the following day for sure!

Bugle wrote:haha yea damn rain, probably would've been called off normally but it was the last race on the 89 world champ circuit (yea it survived that long!). Still got completely rained out after 1 final..
Track gets leveled now to be replaced with a slab of clay with the track marked out using pipes. Should be a better track but still a shame to see the old track go.

I've got some white RC10T hub carriers I could use I guess. Don't really need larger bearings. I think i'll just machine some new ones and make it thicker up to the balljoint bit. Hopefully it won't crack the bulkhead then!
Should probably buy another junker 6-gear car just for the spare arms and stuff incase I need them.

I RECKON IVE WATCHED THAT VIDEO OF THE 89' WORLDS ABOUT A DOZEN TIMES OVER THE PAST FEW WEEKS AND IT IS AMAZING THAT THE TRACK IS RELATIVELY UNCHANGED FROM WHAT WAS RUN ON BACK IN 89. IT WILL BE A SAD DAY TO SEE THIS TRACK GO AS IT IS ONE OF THE LAST ORIGINAL CIRCUITS OF ITS TIME. I WENT FOR A RUN OUT THERE ABOUT A MONTH AGO WITH MY TOPCAT AND COUGAR AND IT WAS GREAT TO JUST HAVE A RUN AROUND. ALTHOUGH I DONT RACE THERE I WILL MIS IT! AND BY THE WAY,WHO LIKES THOSE DAMN DIRTY PIPES BEING SET UP AROUND THE TRACK?

Great build. The color looks great! Really digging the wheels too!



MOmo

How much would you want for them? Dunno if I could use NIP white parts on a runner

How'd the cougar and topcat go over the doubles? I've got a couple of bent cougar chassis' from landing on the top of the 2nd jump back in the day

Pipes are ok for using all of the available space and being able to mod the layout easily, no good if you run into them forwards and get stuck though! Hopefully the new surface holds together better too, current stuff is getting pretty bad.


Here's a vid of the race I was in, start 5th on the grid, saw the car go past on the straight at 1:55, then over the doubles at 2:22, then again at 2:45 only to break the thing a couple of corners later..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZkHV-K6IdE

How about FREE ? I dont mind helping out other vintage guys here in Aus, especialy knowing you want to race your old 10. Do you ever come out to Ryde?

haha free? crazy, thanks! Usually only make it out to Ryde for club challenge rounds, i'll be at the vintage meet racing the RC10 and RC10T, could get the hub carriers off you there.

What's the best way to strip paint and not harm the anodizing like you did there?

I used acrylic paint thinner which dissolved the paint pretty much instantly so I guess the paint was enamel, then I tried it on some lexan and it dissolved the paint along with the lexan too

For someone looking for a polished look, what would you suggest? I have a Rear bumper and motor plate i was think about removing the anodizing off of. I considered using my dremel and a sanding wheel, but i wanted a smooth polished look. There are some scuffs and wear marks on the rear motor guard, but I wasn't sure if a dremel would give me a smooth finish.


MOmo

Hey Bugle,
Good lookin ride! Like how it turned out with the vintage lookin paint job. Put me down for a set of the jelly beans when you get them going. Like stated in a movie awhile back...if you build it they will come! in this instance if you build them they will sell . Really makes the buggy though.
Todd

Bugle i have put the nip rear hubs up in the for sale/trade section but I have 5 used rear hubs I can post to you if you like-F.O.C. Drop me a PM with your postal address and I'll have them out to you in the morning. Cheers-Jason.

MOmo wrote:For someone looking for a polished look, what would you suggest? I have a Rear bumper and motor plate i was think about removing the anodizing off of. I considered using my dremel and a sanding wheel, but i wanted a smooth polished look. There are some scuffs and wear marks on the rear motor guard, but I wasn't sure if a dremel would give me a smooth finish.


MOmo

Dremel might be ok to begin with to remove the anodising and gouges but you'll have to finish off the sanding by hand because it won't give an even surface. Then gradually work down to the finest sand paper and polish it, lots of fun

Thanks to bormac supplying new hub carriers I got it running again. Found the hub carriers to be a different moulding to accomodate drilling the pin hole for 1.5 degrees toe in and are thicker where it goes up to the balljoint. Boiled all the suspension arms, hub carriers and front steering bits.

Gave it a run yesterday like this. Made up some poles and a piece of fibreglass as an extra battery strap so that I don't rip the front off the bulkhead. Reminded me why I don't use the 15 year old m-troniks speedo anymore though. Was way faster with the same motor and an LRP AI speedo in the B4 so i'm going to try that next time.

I would be interested in a set of those wheels also let me know a cost thanks Great car I like both sets of wheels

Thomas's RC10 looks even better in the flesh than these pictures illustrate. His old school black and gold paint job looks awesome on the track. I know i must sound like a broken record but seeing these cars in action beats the hell out of seeing them in someones showroom. Most racers wouldn't know half the cars released 10 years ago let alone the golden oldies. Bringing them down the track is like an education for these guys.
On a side note its also great to meet the guys you read about on the net and catching up with Thomas was great but running in the same class was even better. Im looking forward to next time and I hope he chases them GREMLINS off his ride-