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Sweet project, I like your inspiration awesome job getting a Kyosho to feature so proudly in the RC10 section, I'm sure Scr8p is loving that

Good luck with the build.

PS imho it needs a wing, just my half farthing

I'm sure i'll lose it when those kyosho shocks are put on it......

scr8p wrote:I'm sure i'll lose it when those kyosho shocks are put on it......

Kyosho golds were the best shocks of that era,....so that would definitely be an UPGRADE to the RC10. You have to admit that at least.

i can't arugue that. a kyosho shock is definatly better than an rc10 shock..........


















with hammad ghuman vlt shock bodies.

Not to derail this thread, but why were the Kyosho Golds better than the Platinums? Shouldn't the Platinums have been better by namesake? What's the difference?

scr8p wrote:with hammad ghuman vlt shock bodies.

From what I have read the Platinums were not as smooth as the Golds. Kyosho went back to Golds on the Pro Ultimas etc. So I do not think the Platinums are the ultimate, even though perhaps they should have been on paper. But that aside, I just love the looks and silky operation of the Golds. Also I did own an Optima Mid back in the day. So part of it is nostalgia from that era. I will only have one rc car now (I think), so it is good to tick lots of different boxes with it

I am feeling poor now. I ordered so much stuff for this now. Will take a while to all arrive...

Synergy wrote:Sweet project, I like your inspiration awesome job getting a Kyosho to feature so proudly in the RC10 section, I'm sure Scr8p is loving that

It's one big happy family, right?




Mini update...

I managed to buy a set of new front Kyosho Gold shocks too, so that is the full set sorted. I am looking forward to loads of bits arriving. Hopefully I'll post a load of pics shortly...

More bits arrived...



I think I'm going to go for the straight spokes with gunmetal centres and silver screws. So a bit of switching around to come...

kink wrote:I am feeling poor now.

Are you implying there are other ways to feel??

Coming along nicely.

A few spares are now up for sale, in attempt to offset some of the expensive bits I have bought. In some cases paying over the odds as it was the only way to secure the parts.


Anyway the car is now reduced to a pile of well sorted nuts and bolts. Some items look brand new while others were possibly lightly used. However I have enough new in bag parts coming to rebuild it 100% brand new. Loads of bearings, screws, you name it. Plus enough spares to build most of a second car. Some key items such as the clutch pads or tiny bearings which will be prone to wear have been ordered in larger quantities. So I'll have enough parts to keep this car running for many years ahead, especially considering the limited use it will get.



Some questions if anyone could please help...

1. Is there a solid pin available to replace the rolled pin which fits on the input shaft of the tranny? It was a pain to remove. I see no point in such a tight fit.

2. What grade of oil do you recommend for my Kyosho Gold shocks? The car will eventually only be used in the park on grass or dry earth. So I expect some bumps. A rough guide will do - light / medium / heavy. I'd like to maintain the standard black springs for cosmetics, although I do have the others here.

3. I have a source for custom carbon items. But is there an off the shef front tower (in black) which is slightly taller than a standard Worlds one? I'm not talking truck sized, just a bit taller.

4. What sort of pinion do I need? Are new pinions exactly the same as old ones? Is there some data I need to keep an eye on? Pitch or something?

5. What sort of ratio do you recommend, or sizes (number of teeth) of pinions and large gear do I need for use in large open parks? Might have some thicker grass to get though here and there, but mostly open plain sailing. Err, driving


Thanks very much for any help!

you should be able to find a replacement for the roll pin. probably 1/16", or you could squeeze it a bit with pliers to make it more of a friction fit than a press fit.

I would follow the manual for shock oil recommendations as well as piston info, usually 2 hole piston, 30-35wt oil is 'typical' the gold's are pretty much the same as associated, similar bore/stroke/piston holes.

no factory tower for taller shocks.

standard pinions and spurs for rc10 worlds was 48 pitch, not metric. check out the web for ratio suggestions. I'd probably start something like 87spur/20 pinion with a stock-ish motor.

Thanks a lot. I ordered a few gears and pinions.

I also ordered the extended carbon Worlds tower from RC carbon Works.

Mini update...

I ordered a Tamiya Hornet driving figure and head lamps. I may fit these if they look good. It will be a subtle reminder of my first ever rc car too.

I'll post some pictures of new post arrivals tomorrow...

CHASSIS RESTORATION - before re-anodising black



In addition to a few micro marks previously mentioned the stripped chassis reveals more imperfections
from its original conversion to A&L rear suspension. The mounting holes were spot on accurate. But the
slots cut into the chassis for clearance were not perfect cosmetically. This is not acceptable to me. It has
to be perfect. So I set about fixing these issues before I get the chassis re-anodised black. It will look like
I take a couple of steps backwards in order to get the preparation work done properly, before it will start
to look beautiful again. Fear not, it will turn out lovely in the end... I hope!



First of all I wet and dry sand the areas around the uneven original slots. 



The slots are irregular with too much material missing in the centre of one.



The rear section has a deep scratch. I started rubbing this area down too.



Time to fire up the welding torch and use some special alloy repair rod.



The chassis is heated, weld applied, throughly heated until material flows into the chassis. Allowed to
cool, then wet and dry sanded smooth. Now the scratch has totally vanished. Note how the chassis is no
longer black. The anodising is now golden brown after the heat process. Soon to be removed anyway.



Some aluminium has been replaced in the slot areas, plus a lot of filing and sanding has taken place. 
Now the slots are perfectly even. Also the original chassis has thick slightly lumpy ridges along the
top edges where it was stamped out at the factory. As this was not perfect I rubbed the whole chassis
down to make it silky smooth on all sides. All shiny bare metal exposed highlights where any thicker
high points once were. It is getting closer to feeling perfect in my hands.


This was the worst slot. It is now close to perfect. Getting somewhere now.