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Let me know when you're ready. I'm on a plane back to SoCal in the morning.

I have been trying to determine the best "next step". I think if you can take the drawing from Phin (or file? Not sure about google sketch up conversion) and get it cut out of 3/32 or 1/8- nothing too fancy for the first one. Then I can work on mocking up the front and checking to see if measurements are coming together. I will need to get some opinion on the dual kickup. Is bending something you have access to? If not I can have it done locally as well. I'm guessing a pair of ~10 degree bends

gomachv wrote:I have been trying to determine the best "next step". I think if you can take the drawing from Phin (or file? Not sure about google sketch up conversion) and get it cut out of 3/32 or 1/8- nothing too fancy for the first one. Then I can work on mocking up the front and checking to see if measurements are coming together. I will need to get some opinion on the dual kickup. Is bending something you have access to? If not I can have it done locally as well. I'm guessing a pair of ~10 degree bends

Bending is no prob. We've got all sorts of brakes there.

Should be good to go on cutting it out, and wait and get phin's opinion on the rake then, or if anyone else has an idea of the rake to start with. If nothing else we can start with 10 degrees

Got the front end mocked up today, still need to finish the tower (holes are correct, shape needs to be refined) and make the mono shock mounts. Just gives a nice "color" idea of what is to come

Lesson learned today: if you narrow the nose a bit and add optima steering and dogbones (fit without modification), you can easily build a front end for a four wheel drive "era correct" rc10. Hmmmmm

Oh, and found out the shim under the trans isn't for clearance as much as dogbone angle

Shock mounts done, again I don't necessarily agree with them (the MIP design is better) but its close to original. It will take a 1.02 shock as soon as I locate a shaft. I thought I was stocked up.

This is looking way cool! Keep it going Jeff!

For the Shock shaft, what brand you looking for?

Just a standard old associated, I just figured it out after the LHS closed tonight or it would be done

Can't wait to mate the halves!

Made some very nice progression while I was out of town, and looks like we'll be seeing a completed Bullet soon.

Did you use the measurements from the drawing to do the mock up? If so how close were they? Will get those wheels sent out to you tomorrow morning. Then can see how much the front track width needs adjusting.


Two thoughts on the front kick-up...the first bend between the arm mounts and trans could either come up just enough to get the front tower to a 90 degree angle...or it could come up just enough so that the chassis meets the back rounded bottom of the trans case.

The second bend is less important to get right...just as long as it doesn't bend up too much and touch the front shock.

Cardboard chassis mockup is on the desk right now. So far I have used all your measurements except overall width is cut off, I estimated 82mm

If you can get that complete pic to J-sou he will be ready to cut it soon my cardboard won't hold much weight lol

I'm going to use the cardboard chassis to make the steering arms. This thing won't have a ton of front steering without notching the arms for ball joint clearance. I don't see in the pics that they notched them. Hmm.

I went for Kydex instead. Lol. So here it is, using your drawing the wheelbase is 260mm and the track is 230mm at ride height with stock turbo optima wheels. My Maxxum is 235mm wide and exactly the same 260mm wheelbase. I think you did VERY well on the drawings!



Slight kickup to get front tower 90deg


I will have to measure this, it was just by eye. also didn't make second bend yet

Looks awesome so far!

Nice work, I love it!

Lookin badass!!! When you get done you gonna do the 4x4 version lol ? don

Another clever idea to use kydex for the mock up.

...but looks like I need to recheck the measurements up front. Comparing to the photos in the manual, there should be more space between the tower and trans case, and the dog bones should be slightly swept forward rather than back.

My estimate on wheelbase was about 263-264mm with a set of trailing knuckles, but I only got that from measuring the distance from the rear most arm mount hole to the inside hole of the front arm mounts. Figuring since the front and rear arms are the same that that measurement would be the same at the outside of the arms. That measured 267.5mm and I guessed that another 3-4mm would be lost between the Optima steering parts and trailing (now leading) RC10 axles at the back. That would've put the wheelbase at equal to the wheelbase of standard RC10.


If you're at 260mm now with the inline axles at the rear you're probably going to be at about 257mm when you switch to the trailing knuckles....that should mean somewhere in the drawing I'm off about 6-7mm between the trans and arm mount holes.