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disappointing its 2 kits though, couldnt they spend the extra $10 for both parts?

The top plate of the front bulkhead reminds me a little of the B2/B3 top plate.

looks cool but i dont think the b5m or even the b5 can take a stick pack so im not getting one.. kinda good cause i dont have the cash for new rcs

It will take their new square pack or the current saddle and shorty packs.

They both take full size stick packs too, just place the Speedo and rec electronics elsewhere

As per current roar/ifmar rules, the cars must be able to accept stick packs. -Jeff

You guys are both right. Just double checked and they must now be able to fit stick, shorty and saddle packs.

Could someone explain to me how these kit prices work?

Just wondering because I see this kit will be between £220 + £240, but the kyosho RB6 is over £100 more! They seem very similar kits??

Jay Dub wrote:As per current roar/ifmar rules, the cars must be able to accept stick packs. -Jeff

It's a ROAR only rule, and a buggy must take a full size pack. Full size means either a stick pack or a saddle pack. It doesn't mean the chassis has to take both types, it's legal as long as it can fit one type of full size battery. The B5 looks like it won't take stick packs without modifying the chassis and there's no way you could get a stick pack in the B5M.

If it had to take both stick and saddles, then the B44 couldn't possibly be race legal either.

The 44 can take a stick, left side.

The 22 2.0 in mid and the B5 can as well...right from the servo to the motor...same as the RB6

sheriff wrote:Could someone explain to me how these kit prices work?

Just wondering because I see this kit will be between £220 + £240, but the kyosho RB6 is over £100 more! They seem very similar kits??

1. The RB6 includes all the parts to build it as mid or rear motored version. Has more tuning options than any other buggy on the market.

2. More importantly, it comes from Japan where the Japanese Yen has strengthened a huge amount in the past few years and this is the biggest reason for huge price increases in Japanese products. A Tamiya TT-01 car could be bought for £99 5 years ago, now the same kits are £159. Kyosho is never going to be able to sell the RB6 as cheap as the B5, but drivers are prepared to pay the premium for an RB6. After all, for any racing above club level the cost of the car is a minor expense compared to race, travel and accommodation costs.

terry.sc wrote:

sheriff wrote:Could someone explain to me how these kit prices work?

Just wondering because I see this kit will be between £220 + £240, but the kyosho RB6 is over £100 more! They seem very similar kits??

1. The RB6 includes all the parts to build it as mid or rear motored version. Has more tuning options than any other buggy on the market.

2. More importantly, it comes from Japan where the Japanese Yen has strengthened a huge amount in the past few years and this is the biggest reason for huge price increases in Japanese products. A Tamiya TT-01 car could be bought for £99 5 years ago, now the same kits are £159. Kyosho is never going to be able to sell the RB6 as cheap as the B5, but drivers are prepared to pay the premium for an RB6. After all, for any racing above club level the cost of the car is a minor expense compared to race, travel and accommodation costs.

Nicely explained Terry, thanks mate

Charlie don't surf wrote:The 44 can take a stick, left side.

The 22 2.0 in mid and the B5 can as well...right from the servo to the motor...same as the RB6

The B44 does not include a battery tray to mount a stick pack in it. The TLR 22 2.0 also only includes saddle pack mounts for mid motor, the only way to squeeze a stick pack in a 22 is to leave off the battery mount and strap.

While it looks like you could get a stick pack in the B5, you are going to have to sort out something to locate the battery in the chassis, and you are going to have to dremel away the braces along either side of the battery pack if you don't want to mount your receiver and ESC on top of the battery strap. That doesn't sound to me like a chassis made for stick packs.

The only way you are getting a stick pack in the B5M is to use a very low profile servo and cut out all the chassis cross ribs.

I don't have one on hand, but I don't see any obstructing ribs, not do I see in GJW ROAR rulebook that mounts have to be supplied, just that they must accept-

Charlie don't surf wrote:I don't have one on hand, but I don't see any obstructing ribs, not do I see in GJW ROAR rulebook that mounts have to be supplied, just that they must accept-

The relevant ROAR rule is:
Rule 8.2.3
All chassis in all electric classes (except those specifically noted) MUST accept batteries up to the maximum dimensions allowed for its application. The legality of a chassis will be determined as presented to technical inspection. Chassis that require a configuration change, and/or a modification to fit a battery of maximum dimensions will not be considered legal, and the racer will be disqualified. Foam blocks/spacers are permitted to secure any size battery in its position, but the aforementioned spacers may never be attached to the chassis.

Fitting a full size stick pack in a mid motor TLR 22 and a B44 would both need modifying and the B44 would certainly class as a configuration change.

If the ROAR rules suggest all chassis must just be able to 'accept' a stick pack, as in must be physically able to get one in there even though there is no way to actually mount it, how do you explain the Durango DEX410 being ROAR legal.




There are engineering drawings behind the side view at the top of each page. On the B5M there is a wall between battery and electrics, and another between electrics and servo. I have drawn a stick pack to scale on the chassis picture, and as you can see it would clash with the servo unless you use a very low profile servo.

The rear motor engineering drawing shows there is a rib across the chassis between the battery pack and electrics, which would need to be removed to get a stick pack in there. as you can see on the picture below, if a stick pack was fitted, while it would fit behind the servo, you have the longitudinal chassis ribs running right through the middle of the sections on either side where you would mount the receiver and ESC. You would either have to cut away the ribs or mount the electrics on top of the battery strap.