RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

gomachv wrote:Hyperdrive would work but they are pretty big! I'm looking for a pulley closer to the size of a nickel. A big pulley creates problems with battery locations and belt lengths.

Mini, just so we are on the same page- that is a first gen 2.25 stealth in there not b2/t2 etc.

thanks for your help Jeff......

when most of the ingredients available..... I would start a thread about this "Stealth 4" project.....exciting !!.....

Well I was thinking more the pinion pulleys instead of spurs.

Chris

Gotcha, lol I wasn't thinking. Long day.

The ideal pulley has a 3/8 hole or room for one, that way I can run it either on the slipper hub or over the slipper spring. I think the pinion pulleys would be a bit small- and more importantly expensive!

I did think of pulleys with 3/8" hole......but seems that there are not many choices in the market......

Yes it will probably have to be bored to 3/8, so a nice plain aluminum pulley will be fine

Pehaps a diff pulley from a factory belt drive car like a Schumacher?

Chris

I had the kickup plate off for some changes and decided to snap a couple pics, here you can see the suspension mounts are just stock mounts trimmed.

More pics to follow soon

Quick and dirty mock up on a chassis


Just under 9" with narrow wheels/wide tires (all I had laying around) and these are the old wide offset

need to drill another set of holes on the nose plate ??

I won't post pics of what I had to do to that noseplate it wasn't pretty.

It's a truck plate, cut way down, flattened to about 10 degrees, and the sides cut back to clear the arms. It's ugly. It only serves to check fitment. An aluminum custom one will follow. It looks like its in the long wheelbase setting but it's because of how the holes needed to be drilled.

I love your ambition, and it's making me with I came up with it first.

I wonder if I'm the only one thinking of taking on your lead?

There are a lot of ways to go about it, my techniques won't suit everyone! I'd love to see others spin on this general idea.

I have one of Rod's RC10s sitting in my basement, I wonder if he will forget about it

I was thinking about using Klein arms and as much WOIN parts as I could, or even some re-re parts. Oh, the possibilities

The kyosho components require a short arm and narrowing up the bulkhead quite a bit, so one thing to look for would be a front donor that has less offset to it. I used kyosho because it's a terrific fit and era correct but I'm sure there are better geometries out there

possible to add the nose tubes ??

yes.... kyosho C-hubs fit very well ...... you can see in my project car....

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17732&hilit=project+rc10+legend&start=15