RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Well. . . You're not doing this the low-budget way!
Keep in mind you still need electronics and if you don't need new tires now, you will soon.
I still suggest saving your $55 and de-burring the original steel gears, unless you absolutely hate the idea of filing the edges of the gears.

85Edinger wrote:Keep in mind you still need electronics and if you don't need new tires now, you will soon.

The tires still have ribs and knobs but I bet they're not up to the standards of the guys here. I won't be racing this thing so until they're bald and the car won't turn or move, I'll probably just run with the originals. LOL

Speaking of electronics, what sort of recommendations do you have? I think what I need are:

- LiPo battery (at least 2, maybe 3)

- Charger (doubtful my old charger is compatible)

- Steering servo

- ESC

- Receiver? (this is a separate part, right?)

- Transmitter

- Motor

Anything else?

I like the idea of buying new gears vs. spending hours de-burring mine. This is one of those things you don't tell your wife how much you spent. haha

While I wait for parts (I've talked to local hobby shops; pricing looks good and with their distributor networks already set up, I don't need to handle shipping, brokerage fees, etc. I do need to wait 2 weeks at this point though), explain to me why I need bearings ON the outdrives instead of felt? I understand the benefit of bearings inside them in place of the bushings, but on the outside too? There's virtually no contact with anything (except felt which I can't fathom would cause that much drag) so why add weight and greater contact between the outdrives and tranny casing (albeit with a smooth rolling bearing)??

The outdrive bearings do slightly decrease drag, but the much bigger, more important advantage is that they help the outdrive gears mesh letter with the idlers by supporting them. This lowers the chance of an idler stripping and also relieves stress from the internal bearings.

85Edinger wrote:The outdrive bearings do slightly decrease drag, but the much bigger, more important advantage is that they help the outdrive gears mesh letter with the idlers by supporting them. This lowers the chance of an idler stripping and also relieves stress from the internal bearings.

Well that makes enough sense for me! Thanks.

I'll take pictures once I get all the new parts in hand.

Any advice on electronics?

I'm just waiting for parts and it's going to be a week and a half for most of them and longer for bearings unless I want to pay for shipping....which I don't really. (blame Canada!)

More questions while I wait....

Shocks:

The original manual says to leave a 6.35mm space between the top collar and the body hex nut on the REAR and a 0.0mm space on the front.

The re-re manual pretty much says the exact opposite - 6.5mm space FRONT and 0.0mm space rear.

Is there an explanation for this?



vs.






Motors:

Please help with explaining some of the differences and suitability for my car. I want it to be fast, but I don't want to destroy the transmission I'm rebuilding.

So for Reedy -- Sonic 540 Mach 2 and Sonic 544 Mach 2 -- what's the difference? the 544's seem to list a KV number and the 540's don't; they have another number. Is 8.5 good for my car....or 10.5....or 13.5?

http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/234/



And for LRP, are they good? Better? Vector X20 BL Modified 10.5T -- Good choice....or 8.5T???

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electric-motors/brushless/competition/produkt/vector-x20-bl-modified-105t/details/

*stock photo -- supposed to be 10.5T

The rere has a front shock tower that it is not properly drilled, thus you had to run more preload on the shots. And they still don't work properly until you drill correct hole LOL. Don't worry too much about preload until you get the batteries and motor and electronics in it. The weight now versus the weight back then is quite a bit different actually

Also keep in mind that the re-re has no front antiroll bar, and the original box stock suspension setup was way too stiff anyway.
As for motors, I would go for a 17.5 turn motor to be easy on the transmission. You can get decent brushless motors for as little as $30, just an FYI- but you don't seem to be on much of a budget.

gomachv wrote:The rere has a front shock tower that it is not properly drilled, thus you had to run more preload on the shots. And they still don't work properly until you drill correct hole LOL. Don't worry too much about preload until you get the batteries and motor and electronics in it. The weight now versus the weight back then is quite a bit different actually

My front shock tower has 2 sets of holes and we definitely didn't drill either of them. The lower ones, which is where we had the shocks, are slightly inset from the others. Even at that, the holes are very close to each other.

85Edinger wrote:Also keep in mind that the re-re has no front antiroll bar, and the original box stock suspension setup was way too soft anyway.

Ya I've got the anti-roll bar. Can't believe they made you solder the ball ends on. LOL

So if the original box setup was way too soft, and I'm going to be adding new, heavier electronic components, should I definitely be changing the springs?

They appear to have blue, green, brown, black, grey, silver.... (springs) I still have lots of time to add stuff to my order; it's not submitted until Monday.

How about weight of oil? I have a bottle of 20W but it's ~30yrs old! I was thinking of getting 30W anyway.

85Edinger wrote:As for motors, I would go for a 17.5 turn motor to be easy on the transmission. You can get decent brushless motors for as little as $30, just an FYI- but you don't seem to be on much of a budget.

The Competition class motors seem to be in the $80-$100 range (or crazy people trying to sell the same motors on eBay for $180+)

Then there's a Sport class and then a Stock class.

I hear that 30wt with #1 pistons an green springs are the way to go with brushless and lipo

I mis-typed. The original box stock suspension was way too stiff. Sorry.
For what you're doing I would leave the suspension as it is. New springs are pointless if you're not even replacing the tires.

About motors, 17.5 turn motors are enough to have fun with but less powerful than lower turn motors. It'll be easier on the transmission and also give great runtimes. On a good 5000mah LiPo, my 17.5 Rc10 6 gear can drive around my backyard track for more than an hour straight.
Here's the thread I started when I was looking for a brushless combo, maybe it'll help.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=28498

I'm waiting for parts. More waiting = more questions. Is the final connection to put the power to the wheels just the roll pin in the stub axle sitting in the notch in the rear wheel? That's it?

Progress? The little tubs are metal parts sitting in a rust penetrating solution --

That little roll pin is the only thing transferring power to the wheels. It's perfectly adequate though.

Some parts.....







A stamp....




I have since ordered 6216, 6451 and 6468 x2. Slowest build ever. LOL