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I saw those in fact when i saw them I thought "Huh interesting there is a company called Moor's Ideal products that was making parts for the 4-10" I never even questioned what MIP stood for.

For the update: I'm revising the case design. The bearings were too tight of a fit (they went in but needed a little persuasion.) and a few other fits needed attention. Right now I'm working on a different mounting set up so that one does not have to have a special shock tower r have to modify any thing. By Thursday I'll put in an order at shapewayes for another prototype and go from there.

Good call on the shock tower, they were pretty weak with the cutout!

So practically nothing that i said I'd do I did. Didn't get it out by last Thursday. Got it out to day though. Had to allow for a cut out in the front tower albeit a small one. Did find what I think will be a stiffer way to mount. Adjusted the clearances for bearings and shafts. Anyway some progress and I'm certain there will be more prototypes to come. It will be tough to fit a buggy body too.

Looks good! Integrated mounts? I like it!

Get'r'done so we can race

just a few thoughts ive had

if you could find a work around for having nose tubes, making it fit becomes a much easier task.

why not get a front shock tower with the top brace and still trim it at the bottom.

If your 3d printing parts, why not make the case and front bulkheads 1 piece?

b44 parts look like they might fit for the front but your probably designing your own.

wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???

DMAT wrote:just a few thoughts ive had

if you could find a work around for having nose tubes, making it fit becomes a much easier task.

why not get a front shock tower with the top brace and still trim it at the bottom.

If your 3d printing parts, why not make the case and front bulkheads 1 piece?

b44 parts look like they might fit for the front but your probably designing your own.

I like that top brace idea.

hugger19 wrote:wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???

Kind of what I was thinking too. I have a lot more appreciation for his design now that I'm trying to design it too.

ya and he more than likely still has a bunch of orginal parts or maybe even the molds to pop out a LIMITED EDITION RUN rere mip kit.

Hey Guys, I was hoping to get some input on some issues I have with the front steering block, castor block and B4 CVD I'm trying to mash together. The b4 CVD is just too short in any of the 3 positions I am trying it in. I would prefer to use the Middle position (position 2 as I'm calling it). I've drawn it as a 5deg. castor block. The steering arm is using 3/8" x 1/4" Flanged bearings.
Does any body now the lengths of the different CVDs available.

Below I have listed all the positions. Turning left, Right, and Neutral in positions 1,2 and 3. Position 3 is the most inboard position. And the B4 CVD

The 2.19" (aprox 55mm) you have listed as B4 is an RC10- the B44.2 is approx 63mm rear and 71mm front

Are those trailing steering knuckles? Rear hub carriers maybe?

No but thats not a bad idea.

Here is the current state of things.

myfordcnc wrote:No but thats not a bad idea.

....

Well really I asked because I don't think it's a good idea to use trailing knuckles. Every 4wd I can think of used inline steering knuckles and I got to think there's a good reason for that. Admittedly I don't know exactly what that reason is but my guess is that the uneven arc trailing knuckles would pull the CVD/dogbone through could cause binding.


That said...really digging the transmission case.

Trailing on a 4wd would create a lot of odd length issues as the travel and steering are articulated. If you look at the 4-10 it looks like a trailing setup but the pivot points are inline with the axle

Further more , the centerline of rotation of the CVD/universal and c hub should be in line. This will prevent the doggone end from telescoping while the car turns. It can telescope a little when articulating the suspension but not during the hub rotation. You might be best served adapting b44 or yokomo parts for the hub/spindle.