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B4 CVD axles (no bones yet), Custom Works wheel spacers and B4 rear wheels with AKA rebars.

Now we get to the good stuff

Here is an inline steering bellcrank set up for the RC10 from Niki. The benefit of this system gets the servo further forward to keep more weight over the nose of the car for better balance. Those not using battery cups can move the battery further forward as well. With a low profile servo you gain over 1 1/4" (28mm) clearance from the battery cup to servo in the stock location, and 1" (25mm) with a full length lipo. You still get full L/R travel and it uses the standard worlds ackerman geometry.

Niki has heavy duty versions available that you can get from him http://shpws.me/rp2p . Due to typical RC10 ball stud issues there is also a "Racers" version in the works.

Pictured are prototype bellcranks, Niki's are beefier and I'm also having some alloy bellcranks made.

I hope you like them.

This steering setup was RC10th's idea. I just helped him with some engineering work. I think this was a great setup to implement into tub chassis.

-Niki-

Here it is with Carbon Works tower, front arms, front bulkhead etc....

Nice, steering been looking for those in awhile. estimate on those availability Nikki?

TIA.

Front end all complete, although the chassis and nose plate will be replaced.

Big Bore shocks, 25* blocks, GT axles, B4 wheels and Rebars.

looks good.

i like the steering bellcrank setup. i might have to pick a set up for my BBT sprint car to free up some space inside the cage. i used to have a sassy bellcrank that was similar to those, but they're long gone.

Just read this whole thread now. Love the steering setup - I want a set! I'm curious to hear how this runs and drives with that setup. Thanks also for putting that Nanotech lipo in there, I always wondered if a 6200 would fit, and clearly it does! Plus they ship to Canada, unlike Hobbypartz.

You've given me lots of ideas now - my wallet is hurting already.

Thanks for the nice comments. I was quite surprised nobody has made anything like it in the last decade, so I thought I'd give it a try, and it works very well.

The 6200 fits perfectly and is an excellent battery, by far one of the best batteries I have used. I have nothing but praise for them and have been using them in club racing for a season and a half now without any issues. The only problem with them is they aren't ROAR approved, but coupled with a Hobbywing V3.1 it pulls down the back straight harder than anything else. I have yet to try the 5100/5200? ROAR approved nanotech but expect good things from it. Mainly punch due to the higher C rating.

Finally someone, that came up with that bellcrank setup. Awesome, I love it. With the arm a little out of center, it should work pretty well. I assume that you had to drill new holes for the servo mounts?!

Thanks, It works great in my opinion. Even with the arm a little off center it's pretty even left to right, due to the servo link being angled about the same for a "straighter" pull if that makes sense.

I did have to drill new holes to mount the servo.

yep, that is a nice steering setup. similar to traxxas bullet and rc10b2, and many newer buggies.

Well, I found an easy solution for a drive shaft that works with stock rear arms and B4 hubs. It's better then any other previously mentioned off the shelf part and I think it will work even better if slightly modified. Although still probably not as good as a custom CVD bone this will work fine untill someone makes custom parts.

I want to try some modifications to see how much of an improvement is made before I divulge information


Here's a crappy picture teaser.............

Your buggy looks awesome!

Great job on this buggy - looks like it's ready to race. I'm taking a similar route on my ReRe World's build with the big bore shocks and RCCW towers.

Very interesting bell crank setup. Are you able to get full lock to the left?