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so if i have a more powerful motor should i get a more powerful battery? i run a dxt 3600mah & 3800mah.

if I have a more powerful motor, will my ESC over heat?

Certainly can. Remember, too, that what we're talking about above is all brushless stuff; your current set up is brushed. Some brushless ESCs can drive brushed motors, but a brushed ESC and a brushless motor does not work.

As for power levels, Godspeed touched on it, but I'll expound a little.

Lower turn = more revolutions per volt. Brushless motors are often rated in KV rather than turns, although often both are listed. So, for example, in brushless, a 17.5T 540 motor is about 2,200 KV, or 2,200 RPM per volt. A 5.5 turn will come in around 5,500-6,000 KV. But lower turn/higher KV motors also cannot take as much voltage (due to max RPM ratings), and do not generate as much torque. There's a whole lot more to it, but this should help you get started in selecting parts.

I will say that I have come to prefer KV rating to turn rating. Reason being, motors of different sizes and even manufacture may have the same turn rating, but radically different KV. Take a 12 turn motor; in 540 size, that's around 3,200 KV. But in a 280 size can, it'll work out to about 7,500 KV. Conversely, in a large 40-42mm 1/8 scale motor, 12T will only be about 1,800 KV. And two motors of the same physical size and turn rating may vary quite a bit in RPM/volt as well. As such, calculating gear ratios is easier with KV ratings.

Personally, I like going with middle of the road in most applications. Most of my 1/10 scale critters are running motors between 3,000-4,000 KV. My 1/8 scales get 1,700-2,200 KV cans. In 1/16, I use 4,000-5,000 KV motors. I find it gives one more flexibility. I can gear higher for speed runs, but geared more moderately, it's not taxing everything as hard as a lower turn motor would.

Whatever you go with, just pay attention to ratings. A lot of ESCs specify a KV or turn rating for a given scale on a given surface for a given voltage. The specs might read something like:

2S LiPo/6 cell NiMH: >8.5T on road/>10.5T off road
3S LiPo/9 cell NiMH: >12T on road/>17 turn off road

Awesome thank you, that make more sense, another question tho, will this axle set work on my car, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6219/ This is the kit I ordered

nickrc10classic wrote:Awesome thank you, that make more sense, another question tho, will this axle set work on my car, http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6219/ This is the kit I ordered

They work in P/N: 6216

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCD6001&P=Z

So what axles do I need for my car, I can't find them anywhere

nickrc10classic wrote:So what axles do I need for my car, I can't find them anywhere

You have an original RC10 Classic A stamp. Those should be the ones. Does P/N: 6216 not look familiar?

You were talking about doing an axle conversion at one point but these would be the originals.

Push the stub axles in further obviously.

Yes they do look like mine, but the axles I have now, the hex area is longer and has a hole thru it for the kin pin. And I can't see if these one do have a hole for my kingpin or not , and like I said the hex arena is longer on mine