RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

My decision is not done today, and I see that using the truck tranny will not be easy, with certiainly some specific prototype part(s) to manufacture. But it would be a great story.
The actual issue for TRX1 is that my trans case is used and my trans plate is also bent and blue is quite gone.

I have a great eagle LS runner quite modernized I am very satisfied with, and I have also enought parts to built an other nice one.

As you see, the time is not the priority on this project. the only target is to have a nice runner buggy from Traxxas.

Anyway, I made some small progress today on the rear side:
Battery cups and rear bulhead from another car purchased for parts. The rest is new. Fiberlyte shock mount, +1° arm mount, 1,5° caster shim.




Missing the shocks, a tranny, wheels, body and electronics.

Shock work today. I'm not so proud of it, as I did not rebuilt it. Only out of the dirt, new collars and cups, new balls, and springs out of an eagle car. I will know more in a few days about the leakage...





Not top level work so, but happy to see it going on. May be I will come back on the shocks lately.

TRX-1-3, you have a PM...

peuge73 wrote:TRX-1-3, you have a PM...

Thx to this great guy, I have recieved parts to improve my built:


These trans case in black and motor plate are a little bit reworked,but for me they are bettter than my old white dirty and undyeable case, and my more used motor plate.
I am surprised regarding the metal plate, it seems to have some differences from my original blue one:

If someone have any information about that...

No problem for me, I go on building my car:

Notice that metal diff outdrives are very shiny!!!
still got the A&L clutch, but I spent a little time to realise this item were US style screws.


And now with some pink power on it:


It starts to be good!

Hugues,

Looking good. The TRX3 trans lashes right up to the TRX1 chassis. Glad it's working out. Keep us posted.

Mark

Got an issue with the front wheel axles: the diameter is not OK on the whole length, so the bearings cannot be assembled correctly on the new parts.

I don't think that it is usefull to make a complain to Traxxas for a 20 years old part...
Anyway, I took one good part from an old stock. I allow me to go on with new rims and tires.



- Wooooow, it looks like a car!
- Yes, you are right: it's got wheels on !

peuge73 wrote:Got an issue with the front wheel axles: the diameter is not OK on the whole length, so the bearings cannot be assembled correctly on the new parts.

I don't think that it is usefull to make a complain to Traxxas for a 20 years old part...
Anyway, I took one good part from an old stock. I allow me to go on with new rims and tires.



- Wooooow, it looks like a car!
- Yes, you are right: it's got wheels on !

Hugues,

I have noticed the front axle issue that you have. Just past the axle threads, where the outer bearing sits, there are tooling streaks / shallow gouging that reduces the diameter of the axle there. This leads to the front wheel wobble and is really annoying. I get around this by using (if they are not damaged or worn badly) the older front axles. They are machined correctly. I do not know when the faulty axle production started or stopped or if it continues........Another option I was thinking about was using (finding first) some Traxxas Nitro Buggy axles. I think the only difference is they are steel. Maybe the steel axles are machined correctly.

Or converting to Bandit hubs/axles.

Looking good.

Mark

TRX-1-3 wrote: I have noticed the front axle issue that you have. Just past the axle threads, where the outer bearing sits, there are tooling streaks / shallow gouging that reduces the diameter of the axle there. This leads to the front wheel wobble and is really annoying. I get around this by using (if they are not damaged or worn badly) the older front axles. They are machined correctly. I do not know when the faulty axle production started or stopped or if it continues........Another option I was thinking about was using (finding first) some Traxxas Nitro Buggy axles. I think the only difference is they are steel. Maybe the steel axles are machined correctly.

Exactly, it is a machining issue out of the box. As I told, I have taken used parts to fit well.
I would ask people at my job if they are able to rework the new parts.
I have also parts from nitro rustler, but did not succeed to put the axle out of the plastic part, may be they are overmoulded ?
anyway, everything is fine about this on the car now. Just have to think about for spares (I always like to have spares eeven for vintage).

Very nice.

Ne le vends pas

Je sais que tu as raison. Il roulera cette année, Paul, mais la crise de foi n'est jamais très loin et il faut être fort...

Some pleasure this eevening adjusting the wing.
I kept it unpainted, with repro labels that an old friend done for me, he is a professional.



I have to look for what TBG can do for me...

peuge73 wrote:Shock work today. I'm not so proud of it, as I did not rebuilt it. Only out of the dirt, new collars and cups, new balls, and springs out of an eagle car. I will know more in a few days about the leakage...

I keep coming back to these shock pics and finally had to ask: What's with the O-rings sitting there on the shock shafts, outside the shock bodies?

used as up stop cushions. At full compression, it prevents the piston or lower rod end/cup from hammering the cap(piston) or shock seal(rod end/cup).

jwscab wrote:used as up stop cushions. At full compression, it prevents the piston or lower rod end/cup from hammering the cap(piston) or shock seal(rod end/cup).

Shock bumpers...that's what I was thinking. With my cars, the chassis bottoms out before the shocks reach full compression.

You could still bottom the shock above where the chassis lays due to ruts and uneven surface. However nowadays you will not likely see that type of surface haha.

the external o-ring is shown on the manual. I usually see this on old shocks where the seals are put by the outside: Traxxas, schumacher top cat / cougar 1, etc.
Nowadays, the rod end is facing the metal side of the body shock, not the sealing hardware.