RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I was referring to 20 degree B4 blocks...which would give you 5 degree of caster on a flat chassis if they're flipped around.

The 20 degree RC10 block will give you 10 degree of caster but you have to mod them...shaving off the inside stops so that the knuckle can turn. B4 blocks don't have to be modded.

We used to do flat plate chassis for onroad conversions where there was no front kick. Just swap the stock caster blocks side to side for 15° wheel caster. You could also easily find 10° blocks back then.

Hi Guys,

Thank you for pointing out my mistake, I have edited my post and have put in the early ASC# 6214

20 degree caster block number.

You are right about having to modify them but this was for my BBT Sprint Car project and I want to

use early suspension parts as per the instructions.

Does this mean the B4 has a 25 degree kick up?

That will make it easier for me with my runner I won't have to use hard to get low degree caster

blocks.

I can use B4, +30 degree caster blocks to give me the +5 degrees caster on a flat chassis?

I did read some where I need to ream out the hinge pin hole to 1/8?

Cheers, Dave.

This is the part 7922
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7922/
It was used on B4, T4, SC10 and the GT2 so they all must have the same 25° kickup

They will require using the SC10/B/T/GT2 steering blocks, axles, and king pins with your choice of Hex, in line or trailing

Another option would be drilling the king pin on the B4 caster block to 1/8 and hoping the early pin is long enough.. You would also need to shim the early steering block to center it in the B4 caster block.
I haven't tried that option but it would give you some room to adjust the axle up and down without altering the a-arm angle.

Yes the lower pin of the caster block will need to be drilled to 1/8 to match the RC10 lower arms.

Hi Sschering,

Thank you for that information, I will be putting it in my RC10 note book.

Cheers, Dave.