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3 degrees total or 3 degrees per side? I thought B3 hub carriers were 0 degree but I could be wrong. Are your arm mounts marked as 0 degree?

If the hub carriers themselves are 1.5 or 3.0 degree per side you can use 1.5 degree or 3 degree arm mounts and switch the B3 hub carriers from left to right and right to left. That way they'd cancel each other out and give you 0 degrees of toe.

To tell you the truth, I don't really know what have at this point, lol

I think I may have angled hub carriers and arm mounts.

What''s the best way to determine if and by how much they are angled?

There does not appear to be any markings other than "L" and "R".

Original 0 and 3 degree arm mounts would be marked with a number. If your arm mounts don't have any markings they're either 1.5 degree mounts if they're original parts or 3 degree if they're re-re parts.

Simplest way to see if your arm mounts have toe in is to do something like what Niki does in this post: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=33726&start=30#p391518

In the pic the black left side mount is an original 1.5 degree mount and the white right side arm mount is a re-re 3 degree mount.

I swapped the hub carriers so that the right is on the left and vice-versa.

I still have toe-in so I guess that means that my arm mounts are 3 degrees.

In any event, the problem has been resolved.

Thanks Phin!

I also noticed that my rear hex adaptor does not seat all the way in the wheel hub.

It appears as if this is deu to the axle stepping up for 3/8" to 1/4".

Has anyone else experienced this?

If I drill out the hole in the wheel to 1/4" I can get the hex adaptor to seat properly.

Thoughts?

if you don't have 1/4" adapters, yes, they are probably for 3/16" axles and won't have the taper. either drill out the adapters or convert the axles to 3/16" is your best bet.

there are some hex adapters for 1/4" but they are pretty wide, for converting rc10 axles to the older style hex wheels like the old kyosho and hpi offset, etc.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/associated-RC10-hex-adapter-for-RC10-1-4-axles-/331568163977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d3300ac89

there is also these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN057&P=ML

that you can modify to fit your needs.

Let me clarify.

The hex adaptor fits the axle.

The HPI vintage wheel does not slide far enough on axle because the axle goes from 3/16" to 1/4".

Thus the hex adaptor does nut fit all of the way into the back of the wheel.

http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/dennisbaxter2/media/IMG_5449_zps8em8lopc.jpg.html
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/dennisbaxter2/media/IMG_5445_zpscmxevq1n.jpg.html

If the hex went into the wheel more would you have to chop off the last camber link hole?

BTW what dogbones did you settle on?

I gotcha. moving to 3/16" axles would allow you to use a very slim hex adapter and slide the wheel farther inboard.

Those are b3 rear hubs so it's just a stub axle and bearings to get you to 3/16".

also, if that runs the wheel into the hub, just lower the camber link on the hub and bulkhead and trim the hub to fit inside the wheel.

I have not locked down on a set of dogbanes yet, lol

I am waiting on a set of Tamiya 32mm to arrive.

If they don't work, I found a set of adjustable dog bones.

And if they doesn't work, I am going to cut a pair to size and solder back together with a brass tube.

Oh wait, I have one more solution. I ordered 2mm and 3mm brass couplings w/ grub screws.

Yes, those are B3 hub carriers.

As for the hubs, cutting of the last link and repositioning the mounting hole on the bulkhead was the route I was going to take.

Then I will be able to fit the 31mm wheel in the rear.

The Tamiya dog bones came in today but unfortunately, they are a bit short.

I am going to try the adjustable dog bones and see how they work out.

http://www.rcmart.com/active-hobby-str195-tt0201-universal-joint2934mm-p-58380.html?cPath=595_744_1585

Will Tamiya axles fit my DS?

Nope. Tamiyas use metric bearings.

Phin wrote:Nope. Tamiyas use metric bearings.

That figures, lol

I guess it's on to plan C!

Here are some pics of the Tamiya doggone installed on my DS. I will be able to eliminate another 4mm of track width once I get my shorter arms so they just might work.

http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/dennisbaxter2/media/General%20Lee/IMG_5465_zpsirxnot67.jpg.html

http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/dennisbaxter2/media/General%20Lee/IMG_5462_zpsarjwafek.jpg.html

http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/dennisbaxter2/media/General%20Lee/IMG_5461_zpsbpz0cpbz.jpg.html

Thoughts?

doesn't look too bad. you could probably limit the range of motion if what you show in the pics is binding.

the other thing, that I just remembered, if you find some other rear hub carrier, say from a different touring car, that raises the axle in the hub, you will end up with less bone plunge. If the axles and diff outdrive are on the same centerline with the arm parallel to the ground, the bone will essentially stay in the same place in the drive cup over the range of motion.

maybe rear hub carriers from a tc3 or tc4.